What do conventional fashion designers Diane vonFurstenberg,
Oscar de la Renta, Kate O’Connor, Agnes B and eco-fashion designers Amanda Shi of Avita, Linda
Loudermilk, Katherine Hamnett, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham at United Bamboo, Sara Kirsner at Doie Designs, and clothing
manufacturers Bamboosa, Shirts Of Bamboo, Jonano, HTnaturals
in Canada and Panda Snack, and fabric
manufacturers Table Bay Spinners of
South Africa, Richfield Tang Knits Ltd.
in
In part because of its luxurious softness, smooth hand, flowing and gentle drape, and easy price – at least compared with silk and cashmere – and eco friendly cachet, bamboo has gained entry throughout the fashion industry. But it has been the trumpets heralding bamboo as the latest and hottest sustainable eco-fabric that have been the most strident. And some of the hoopla is justified. Growing bamboo is a wonderfully beneficial plant for the planet and most is naturally organic bamboo. The manufacturing processes where bamboo the plant is transformed into bamboo the fabric are where the sustainability and eco-friendly luster of bamboo is tarnished because of the heavy chemicals, some of which are toxic, that are often required. Very, very little bamboo clothing would qualify as sustainable or organic clothes. Here’s the scoop.
Botanically categorized as a grass and not a tree, bamboo just might be the world’s most sustainable resource. It is the fastest growing grass and can shoot up a yard or more a day. Bamboo reaches maturity quickly and is ready for harvesting in about 4 years. Bamboo does not require replanting after harvesting because its vast root network continually sprouts new shoots which almost zoom up while you watch them, pulling in sunlight and greenhouse gases and converting them to new green growth. And bamboo does this the natural way without the need for petroleum-guzzling tractors and poisonous pesticides and fertilizers.
Bamboo the plant is wonderfully sustainable; bamboo the fabric isn’t so easy to categorize. There are two ways to process bamboo to make the plant into a fabric: mechanically or chemically. The mechanical way is by crushing the woody parts of the bamboo plant and then use natural enzymes to break the bamboo walls into a mushy mass so that the natural fibers can be mechanically combed out and spun into yarn. This is essentially the same eco-friendly manufacturing process used to produce linen fabric from flax or hemp. Bamboo fabric made from this process is sometimes called bamboo linen. Very little bamboo linen is manufactured for clothing because it is more labor intensive and costly.
Chemically manufactured bamboo fiber is a regenerated cellulose fiber similar to rayon or modal. Chemically manufactured bamboo is sometimes called bamboo rayon because of the many similarities in the way it is chemically manufactured and similarities in its feel and hand.
Most bamboo fabric that is the current eco-fashion rage is chemically manufactured by “cooking” the bamboo leaves and woody shoots in strong chemical solvents such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH – also known as caustic soda or lye) and carbon disulfide in a process also known as hydrolysis alkalization combined with multi-phase bleaching. Both sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide have been linked to serious health problems. Breathing low levels of carbon disulfide can cause tiredness, headache and nerve damage. Carbon disulfide has been shown to cause neural disorders in workers at rayon manufacturers. Low levels of exposure to sodium hydroxide can cause irritation of the skin and eyes. Sodium hydroxide is a strong alkaline base also known as caustic soda or lye. In its dry crystalline form, caustic soda is one of the major ingredients of Drano. This is basically the same process used to make rayon from wood or cotton waste byproducts. Because of the potential health risks and damage to the environment surrounding the manufacturing facilities, textile manufacturing processes for bamboo or other regenerated fibers using hydrolysis alkalization with multi-phase bleaching are not considered sustainable or environmentally supportable.
While specifics can vary, the general process for chemically manufacturing bamboo fiber using hydrolysis alkalization with multi-phase bleaching technology – which is the dominate technology for producing regenerated bamboo fiber – goes like this:
- Bamboo leaves and the soft, inner pith from the hard bamboo trunk are extracted and crushed;
- The crushed bamboo cellulose is soaked in a solution of 15% to 20% sodium hydroxide at a temperature between 20 degrees C to 25 degrees C for one to three hours to form alkali cellulose;
- The bamboo alkali cellulose is then pressed to remove any excess sodium hydroxide solution. The alkali cellulose is crashed by a grinder and left to dry for 24 hours;
- Roughly a third as much carbon disulfide is added to the bamboo alkali cellulose to sulfurize the compound causing it to jell;
- Any remaining carbon disulfide is removed by evaporation due to decompression and cellulose sodium xanthogenate is the result;
- A diluted solution of sodium hydroxide is added to the cellulose sodium xanthogenate dissolving it to create a viscose solution consisting of about 5% sodium hydroxide and 7% to 15% bamboo fiber cellulose.
- The viscose bamboo cellulose is forced through spinneret nozzles into a large container of a diluted sulfuric acid solution which hardens the viscose bamboo cellulose sodium xanthogenate and reconverts it to cellulose bamboo fiber threads which are spun into bamboo fiber yarns to be woven into reconstructed and regenerated bamboo fabric.
This gives some feel for how chemically intensive the
hydrolysis-alkalization and multiphase bleaching manufacturing processes are
for most bamboo fabrics that are promoted as being sustainable and
eco-friendly.
Newer manufacturing facilities have begun using other technologies to
chemically manufacture bamboo fiber that are more benign and eco-friendly. The chemical manufacturing process used to produce lyocell from wood cellulose can be modified to use bamboo
cellulose. The lyocell process, also
used to manufacture TENCEL®, uses N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide to dissolve the
bamboo cellulose into a viscose solution. N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide is a member of the amine oxide family. Amine oxides are weak alkalines that act as surfactants and help break down the cellulose structure. Hydrogen peroxide is added as a stabilizer and the solution is forced
through spinnerets into a hardening bath which causes the thin streams of
viscose bamboo solution to harden into bamboo cellulose fiber threads. The hardening bath is usually a solution of water and methanol, ethanol or a similar alcohol. The regenerated bamboo fiber threads can be
spun into bamboo yarn for weaving into fabric. This lyocell processing is substantially healthier and more eco-friendly because N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide is supposedly non-toxic to humans and the
chemical manufacturing processes are closed-loop so 99.5% of the chemicals used
during the processing are captured and recycled to be used again. Only trace amounts escape into the atmosphere or into waste waters and waste products.
Other chemical manufacturing processes for bamboo fabric are appearing such as using acetic anhydride and acetic acid with sulfuric acid as a catalyst to form acetate fiber which is then spun into a yarn.
New nano-technologies are also being introduced into the bamboo clothing industry. GreenYarn, a new startup located in Boston, is developing a bamboo clothing line made from nano-particles of bamboo charcoal. GreenYarn’s “Eco-fabric” is manufactured from 4 to 5 year old Taiwanese-grown bamboo that has been dried and burned in 800 degree C ovens until it is reduced to charcoal. The bamboo is processed – we don’t know how – into fine nano particles which are then embedded into cotton, polyester or nylon fibers. This conventional fiber yarn that contains trapped bamboo charcoal nano particles is then woven into fabrics … mostly socks and blankets now.
Greenyarn’s Eco-fabric is promoted as being anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-static, de-odorizing, breathable, thermal regulating (cool in hot weather and warm in cool weather), and environmentally friendly. Obviously, a significant part of Eco-fabric’s claims to sustainability depend upon the sustainability of the original cotton, polyester or nylon fibers that have been impregnated with the bamboo charcoal nano particles. In a footnote, Greenyarn mentions that the active bamboo charcoal ingredients will only remain active in the clothing for about six months of active use.
Chemically-manufactured bamboo rayon has some wonderful properties which are adored by conventional and eco-aware designers and consumers:
- Bamboo fabric has a natural sheen and softness that feels and drapes like silk but is less expensive and more durable.
- Bamboo clothing is easy to launder in a clothes washer and dryer.
- Because of the smooth and round structure of its fibers, bamboo clothing is soft and non-irritating, even to sensitive skin. Some people with chemical sensitivities can not tolerate bamboo clothing. We are not sure if this intolerance is due to the intrinsic nature of bamboo but it more likely because of other chemicals added or used during the manufacturing and finishing processes of the clothing.
- Bamboo is naturally anti-bacterial and anti-fungal supposedly because of a bacteriostatis agent unique to bamboo plants called “bamboo kun” which also helps bamboo resist harboring odors. “Kun” is also sometimes spelled “kunh”. The bamboo kun in bamboo fabric stops odor-producing bacteria from growing and spreading in the bamboo cloth allowing bamboo clothing to be more hygienic and to remain fresher smelling.
- Bamboo clothing is hypoallergenic.
- Bamboo is highly absorbent and wicks water away from the body 3 to 4 times faster than cotton. In warm, humid and sweaty weather, bamboo clothing helps keep the wearer drier, cooler and more comfortable and doesn’t stick to the skin.
- The structure of bamboo fibers make bamboo fabrics more breathable and thermal regulating than cotton, hemp, wool or synthetic fabrics.
- Bamboo clothing is naturally more wrinkle-resistant than cotton, and while it might still require ironing after washing, bamboo fabric can be ironed at a lower temperature than cotton. Shrinkage during washing and drying is minimal at warm temperatures.
- Bamboo fibers and fabrics absorb dyes faster and more thoroughly than cotton, modal and viscose with better color clarity. Bamboo fabrics do not need to be mercerized to improve their luster and dye-ability like cotton requires.
-
Designers such as Kate O’Connor use bamboo fabric as an eco-friendly replacement for silk. Speaking of bamboo eco-fashion, Kate O’Connor calls bamboo fashion “so much cheaper [than silk] and it’s really good for the environment.” “It is the perfect summer fabric” according to Kate O’Connor. Linda Loudermilk, another savvy eco-fashion designer, frequently incorporates bamboo into her eco-fashions. Amanda Shi of Avita has some of the most exciting and originally beautiful eco-fashion in bamboo.
Bamboo the plant and also bamboo the fabric can rate high as an environmentally friendly and renewable resource:
- Bamboo grows rapidly and naturally without any pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers.
- Bamboo clothing (both mechanically and chemically manufactured) is 100% biodegradable and can be completely decomposed in the soil by micro-organisms and sunlight without decomposing into any pollutants such as methane gas which is commonly produced as a by-product of decomposition in landfills and dumps.
- Growing bamboo improves soil quality and helps rebuild eroded soil. The extensive root system of bamboo holds soil together, prevents soil erosion, and retains water in the watershed.
- Bamboo grows naturally without the need for agricultural tending and large diesel exhaust-spewing tractors to plant seeds and cultivate the soil.
- Bamboo plantations are large factories for photosynthesis which reduces greenhouse gases. Bamboo plants absorb about 5 times the amount of carbon dioxide (a primary greenhouse gas) and produces about 35% more oxygen than an equivalent stand of trees.
- Bamboo fabrics and clothing can be manufactured and produced without any chemical additives although eco-certification such as Oeko-Tex is necessary to insure that the manufacturing and finishing processes are healthy.
- Currently, there are no known genetically modified organisms (GMO) variants of bamboo. Let’s hope it stays that way.
The bottom line on bamboo. The growing of bamboo is environmentally friendly but the manufacturing of bamboo into fabric raises environmental and health concerns because of the strong chemical solvents used to cook the bamboo plant into a viscose solution that is then reconstructed into cellulose fiber for weaving into yarn for fabric.
Bamboo clothing marketers have found a variety of ways to put the most eco-friendly and sustainable face on the manufacturing of bamboo fabric. The dominant manufacturing process of hydrolysis alkalization and multi-phase bleaching is generally referred to as a rather benign process utilizing caustic soda and bleach. The chemicals used are known to create a variety of health problems and neural disorders which can be hazardous to the health of fiber manufacturing workers. If the manufacturing facility lacks adequate pollution control systems – all too common in developing countries where regulations and enforcement are nearly non-existent – then these toxic chemicals can escape into the atmosphere through air vents and smokestacks and into waterways through inadequately treated waste water disposal systems.
Some bamboo fiber manufacturing facilities trumpet their sustainability and green credentials by establishing ISO 9000 Quality Management policies and ISO 14000 Environmental Management policies. This is largely a PR red herring tossed by the manufacturing facilities and marketers because these ISO standards do not mean that the facilities, their manufacturing processes or their fabrics have been certified by any of the international certification bodies such as SKAL, Soil Association, Demeter, KRAV, or OKO-tex.
The International Organization for Standardization, ISO, is an international NGO that defines industrial and commercial standards. ISO 14000 gives the requirements for an Environmental Management System. This means that ISO 14000 “…is a tool for helping organizations to implement good environmental practice and to aim for continual improvement of their environmental performance” according to an ISO press release.
ISO 14000 does not certify that a company’s manufacturing processes are sustainable or environmentally friendly. ISO 14000 is simply a generic set of standards and tools to help businesses – any kind of business such as financial services or media companies and not just manufacturing companies – define their environmental concerns and how to meet them. ISO 14000 does not guarantee that once a company has defined their Environmental Management System that they will meet their goals. There is also no guarantee that a company’s implementation of their Environmental Management System using ISO 14000 will meet the criteria for sustainability. ISO has posted an interesting introduction to ISO 14000 on YouTube. Because ISO 14000 is a very “flexible” standard, it is impossible to know what and how a company is actually implementing their ISO 14000 Environmental Management System.
Some manufacturers also boast that they have implemented ISO 9000 as if this improves their “green” credentials. ISO 9000 is another set of generic standards and tools for defining and implementing a company’s quality management system. The domain of ISO 9000 is quality management and has nothing to do with environmental issues.
ISO 14000 and ISO 9000 are important and useful tools and standards but, without knowing the specifics of a company’s ISO 14000 implementation, it is impossible to know if their manufacturing processes are actually sustainable and conform to environmental regulations. Also, environmental regulations, controls, enforcement and attitudes vary greatly from country to country as does transparency into what really happens within a country’s manufacturing facilities. For example, getting reliable data and information from garment manufacturers in China, where most clothing is now manufactured, is very difficult.
What to do? If you are thinking of purchasing bamboo clothing or any clothing that has been made outside the U.S., look for certification from an independent and reliable certification company such as Oeko-Tex, Soil Association, SKAL, KRAV or similar organic or sustainable certification body. Currently, the Oeko-Tex label is the most comprehensive label for insuring that the garment is healthy for consumers but it does not certify the manufacturing processes that produced the garment as being environmentally friendly and sustainable.
Some people many find our critique of the environmental and human health impact of bamboo clothing to be harsh but we based our statements on the best research that we could find from medical research journals, trade information, patent applications and consumers’ experiences. We tried contacting a number of bamboo fiber manufacturers for additional information on their manufacturing processes but we received only bland statements about how they satisfied all governmental environment regulations or just radio silence. We would be highly appreciative of any documented facts from bamboo fiber and fabric manufacturers that correct any of our findings and we promise to publish your corrections. Bamboo fabric and clothing has wonderful potential as a sustainable and environmentally friendly product if it can demonstrate that it is sustainable and friendly to the health of the planet, manufacturing and garment workers, and consumers.
Enjoy.
Michael
I am so glad to read this! It confirms my suspicion that bamboo is really just rayon: in other words,cellulose molecules forced through spinnarets!
As a botanist, I can tell you that cellulose from woodchips is essentially the same as cellulose from bamboo.
I'm not sure which is the most sustainable raw material. I believe that the wood chips that are made into rayon are simply a by-product of forest industries. But for all I know, cellulose from bamboo has also been used in production of rayon.
Also, I question the existence of the bacteriostatic agent unique to bamboo plants called “bamboo kun” or “kunh.” These agents are usually complex phytochemicals that cannot withstand the harsh chemical treatment that you describe.
So, it seems to me that textile manufacturers have just found another way to "spin" this fiber for purposes of marketing to a gullible public.
Thanks for the expose.
Posted by: Margaret Conover | September 26, 2007 at 09:56 AM
I'm a textile engineer and have been telling people this for years. This type of bamboo fabric is nothing more than rayon made using bamboo as the source of cellulose. The only advantage it has is in the growing of the bamboo, all the other chemical ickyness is the same.
Posted by: beep1o | September 26, 2007 at 10:35 PM
Thank you for your wonderful research and sharing.
For 2 years I have worked to make a very green "printed" tee. I am not a marketer, but an artist struck by the desire to witness change. Eventually, I settled on a blend of bamboo and organic cotton and work very closely with my manufacturer (textile and tees are made in the USA.)
Certaintees, my company, does not use bamboo fabric processed with caustic soda or harmful additives. I also requested that the fabric used to make my tees not be coated with any softener (silicone is often used), or have added lycra or spandex (not even 5%). Durability and non-pilling were issues and I learned that weak and fragile yarn is caused by using bamboo that is "over" processed (severely broken fibers). Certaintees are naturally strong and soft.
Improvements have been made and continue to be made. I am not an expert of plants or fiber, but will do my best to continue to ask questions, make demands, share information, and promote the progress being made.
Posted by: lee | September 27, 2007 at 01:49 PM
Thank you! great article!
I love to know more about the best type of bamboo variety to produce fiber for clothing. I am really only on the planting process. I love bamboo and have some land with "dendrocalamus asper". Living in a country that has a great climat and still keeps natural healthy land, I will love to support that line of enviromentally safe products, yet making possible for many to find a living. Bamboo could be great for many poor farmers and could help them since there are many that have land but not money for investment. It is a great way of taking care of our beautiful home our planet. By the time the bamboo grows, I am sure interesting research will develop, we are many now to think with love. I will love to learn more about this textile processing and could develop something in my country that could be good for many.. could you help me to find my way?
Thank you
Posted by: Maria Amparo | January 22, 2008 at 10:34 AM
''The FTC classifies all man made fibers that use cellulose from plants as rayon. Historically viscose rayon has been manufactured using a process in which fairly toxic chemicals chemically convert the cellulose into a soluble compound which is in turn regenerated into almost pure cellulose, hence the term ‘regenerated cellulose fiber’. This process removes any natural characteristics of the original cellulose.
In contrast to this is a new method for converting plant cellulose into a usable fiber. This was first done in 1992 by a company using wood fiber, and is now identified as Lyocell and marketed in the US under the name Tencel.
Bamboo fiber used in spinning yarn for textiles is manufactured the same way as Lyocell (wood fiber) -with the same organic solvent N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (amine oxide). This solvent is non-toxic and completely recycled during the manufacturing process. So although bamboo is classified as rayon by the FTC because it is made from cellulose it is actually a subset of rayon that uses a separate process from viscose to convert the bamboo cellulose to a spinnable form (bamboo rayon is NOT therefore the same as viscose rayon). One of the great advantages of this process is there is no formation of a derivative and therefore the natural characteristics of the cellulose are retained in the final product.
Bamboo has 1000’s of uses and its use as a textile fiber is just emerging. It benefits the environment not only in growing the plant (excellent carbon dioxide and nitrogen sink, produces copious oxygen) but also the processing since it is a closed system with non toxic chemicals, and will hopefully lessen the demand for higher polluting materials.''
Posted by: Chloe Tostevin | March 08, 2008 at 08:07 AM
Great blog, but some crucial information is missing here. While in theory the growth of bamboo can be sustainable and eco-friendly, in practice it is as far from that as possible.
First, I would challenge anybody to find proof of a sustainable bamboo plantation that maintains any biodiversity. Bamboo plantations are mono-cultures. With the rise in popularity of bamboo large tracks of natural forest are cleared to make way for bamboo.
Farmers are also sometimes converting food areas over to bamboo as the prices they can fetch for bamboo is often more lucrative. Contrary to popular perception loads of chemicals are used to grow bamboo at the rate commercial interests need. Herbicides are used to keep competing foliage down as are fertilizers to encourage fast growth.
If something sounds to good to be true, it likely is. Bamboo is not a solution in it's present commercial form. If there was a certification process for bamboo like there is for wood (www.fsc.org) we might have the ability to encourage and support more sustainable bamboo options, but there isn't any such standards for bamboo farming.
The truest eco-fibre is still hemp when it is grown and processed without chemicals and when it is sourced from old existing plantations so as not to lose more habitat. After that organic cotton grown in such a way as to minimize water usage is next. Some parts of the world cotton is native to and as such natural rainfall patterns can alone often be enough.
We need to encourage the conversion of current cotton plantations over to organic methods with a focus on extreme water management. Habitat protection is important so just allocating more and more of it for textile fibre production quickly will pass the point where there is any value at all in a natural fibre being produced in the first place.
Everything old becomes new again. In a more sustainable world we will all have less clothing, take care of it and repair it rather than replace it. Better quality garments and the realization that we can't have massive wardrobes is the way to go. Ever wonder why old homes had such small closets? It is because people made do with less and we will eventually find ourselves back there before to long.
Posted by: The-Grudge | June 18, 2008 at 10:16 AM
Hi, Whilst i am not an expert, I too have spent a considerable amount of time recently researching the masses of websites and contacting relevant individuals regarding bamboo clothing. I've investigated the phases involved from growing to bamboo to manufacuring the fabric and the final clothing garments. My conclusion to all the research is that although there are some areas of the processing which are not ideal, there is no alternative that can provide a wholistic benefit to the environment and the consumer that can compare to bamboo.
The growing phase is much friendlier than any alternatives, even organic cotton. Just to name a few benefits, bamboo uses almost no water to grow (unlike any cotton, which can use up to 29,000L to produce 1kg), use no pestides/fertilizers to grow, takes 5 times the amount of greenhouse gases and produces 35% more oxygen for our environment. Clearly beneficial for the environment.
Chemicals can be added in processing the bamboo fibre.
The chemical used in bamboo processing is sodium hydroxide which can be added to aid in the
breakdown of the woody bamboo stems. When the stems are pulverised another substance is added to the mixture which breaks the sodium hydroxide bonds and converts it to inert salt and water.
The chemicals used are contained within the factory, reused and
recycled in most repuatable places, and the worst that can happen to workers that are working in direct proximity with the sodium hydroxide is their eyes may become irritated. Again , not ideal, but not a reason to dismiss bamboo clothing, for alternatives that can't provide the overall benefit gained from bamboo.
No chemicals are found on the bamboo fibre at the end of processing particularly if it is certified by OEKO-Tex100. This means there is absolutely
no residues of harmful chemicals.
(check www.oeko-tex.com for more info.)
This certification agency is one that also certifies organic cotton. This is essential in order to recognize an Organic T-shirt. What those standards aim to achieve is to maintain the integrity of the organic nature of the fiber as much as possible. This is achieved by using as much organic material as possible, and by adopting alternative chemicals and processing practices that minimize the impact on the environment, and protect the health of consumers, while insuring textiles of high quality that are economically viable. The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Mark is one such standard.
So, after all that, there are many points to consider when weighing up whether or not to support bamboo clothing (or any other eco friendly clothing for that matter). Unfortunately none of them are 100% perfect. My hope is that consumers will look at the entire scenario involved in bamboo clothing from growing the plants to producing the final garment and see the whole picture
Posted by: bamboo supporter | June 26, 2008 at 06:09 AM
The reality is nothing is perfect. The conventional textile industry has a very significant impact on human health, social health and the environment. Are bamboo viscose, organic cotton and hemp perfect solutions to all our textile related environmental issues? No. Are they better solutions versus conventional cotton and synthetics such as polyester? An emphatic yes.
Yes, its true that the production of bamboo viscose involves the use of chemicals that if left unmanaged can do harm to humans and the environment. But before we write off bamboo as a sustainable textile option, let's consider some facts:
- Bamboo is the fastest growing plant on earth with an average growth rate of 12 - 19 inches per day (Jinhe Fu, 2000). Bamboo is tremendously hardy and pest resistant. No fertilizers, pesticides or irrigation is required. Neither is replanting required. The shoots are simply cut to their base and the bamboo regrows from new shoots. As such, bamboo offers a tremendous source of sustainable cellulose for textile production.
- Let's compare this with cotton. Cotton is very sensitive to pest infestation and drought. Every one Kg of cotton lint production requires 10,000 - 17,000 liters of water. Cotton production accounts for 2.4% of total arable land yet accounts for 11% of global pesticide use and 25% of global insecticide use (Kooistra & Termorshaizen, 2006). Approximately 40,000 lives are lost each year due to pesticide / insecticide application (WHO, 2002). Approximately 100 million hectares of land (8% of global arale land) has been lost due to over-exploitation with the main cause being salinisation caused by improper irrigation practices employed in cotton production. And then there is the environmental impact. Each year, it is estimated that approximately 67 million birds are killed by pesticides (Lotus, 2004). And then there is the impact on our river, lake systems and ground water.
I can go on and on but I think we can all agree that conventional cotton production exacts a terrible toll on human and environmental health. Organic cotton is definitely a huge improvement as it removes synthetic pesticides, insecticides and synthetic fertilizers from the equation. However, water use is not considered in organic cotton certification so in a sense organic cotton production is not truly sustainable. Is it better then conventional cotton production? Hell yes.....way better. Is it perfect? No, but its a darn good start that we can continue to build on.
And the same goes for bamboo. Unlike organic cotton which does employ organic pesticides, organic fertilizers and irrigation, bamboo culture uses nothing. As such, the environmental impact at the harvest level should be much less even then organic cotton.
For bamboo, the issue seems to be the chemical use at the production level. I would agree the chemicals used in the process are not good, however, I would argue that it is alot better and safer then losing 40,000 people per year through pesticide use! Additionally, because this chemical use occurs within central locations (ie. manufacturing plants) this offers much better ability to treat the water prior to leaving the plant and entering the environment. This type of treatment is simply not possible with the land application of fertilizers and pesticides on cotton farms.
Is bamboo a perfect solution? No. But it has all the opportunity to be a very low impact and sustainable solution to meet our growing textile requirements.
At our company, we are very careful in choosing eco fashion products that meet our very stringent certification requirements. I invite you to take a look at our environmental policy at http://www.fashionandearth.com/environmental-policy.html
Posted by: Adrian Desbarats | August 30, 2008 at 08:36 AM
This is THE BEST article I have read on the sustainability aspect of Bamboo. Thanks for that.
I am consulting for a mattress manufacturer looking to create the world's healthiest, greenest mattress. Is bamboo the answer with our current technologies or should we stick with organic wool or the like. Would greatly appreciate any suggestions from fabric experts out there.
Mahalo,
Pete
Posted by: ecoPedro | November 14, 2008 at 02:52 PM
Oh my goodness. I feel bamboozled by bamboo rayon. (Sorry, I couldn't help myself.)
Thank you for this extensive article. I write about green living on my website (www.ecotothepeople.com) and fashion is a huge part of what we offer our readers. I plan to send this to all of our eco friends.
Sincerely, Heather O'Neill
Posted by: Eco to the People | March 09, 2009 at 04:59 PM
Thanks, Heather. I was unaware of Eco To The People until your posting and I just spent the last hour browsing through your site at www.ecotothepeople.com. Totally fascinating, useful, playful and well written! Thanks for stopping by. -Michael
Posted by: mlackman | March 10, 2009 at 10:52 AM
I was curious if anyone knows how the bamboo processing differs with non woven fabric? I am gathering lots of information on the processing of bamboo for yarn, but not sure if this is pretty much the same for non woven. Would appreciate any feedback.
Posted by: Jeane | March 15, 2009 at 06:09 PM
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Posted by: Account Deleted | April 22, 2009 at 10:43 AM
This is great we need more Bamboo and Organic and Hemp check out http://www.ecomall.com for lots of green clothing ...
Posted by: Perry Peck | June 28, 2009 at 02:12 PM
The day will come very soon when hemp will become as common as other natural resources. We who understand this and try our best by becoming activist and writing our political leaders. By demanding action to right this wrong we are not only helping humanity we are helping ourselves. Hemp makes common sense but for economic reasons too and environmental reasons HEMP IS GOOD FOR US AND OUR COUNTRY. Check out Organic and hemp clothing at
http://www.apronstore.com/hempaprons.htm GO HEMP GO!
Posted by: Perry Peck | June 28, 2009 at 02:16 PM
hi i love this article so much, im a student of Applied Science Textile Technology at RMIT University Australia, i study Environmental and Experimental Textiles along wid Fabrics, and this article has helped me understand so much more about bamboo, and how people can believe so easily if unaware of Bamboo facts can be tricked in buying bamboo products as there are alot of hidden disadavantages of this fabric for the environment in the long run.
Posted by: www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=548818967 | September 29, 2009 at 03:27 AM
I believe there are many significant factors that were not brought up here. Focusing on the production of bamboo is not a great method of assessing its "greeness".
For starters - The vast majority of a textile products environmental impact (if that is your primary focus) is in its "use stage".
We have written extensively on bamboo fabrics (It is the primary focus of our blog)
If anyone is interested in learning more about bamboo textiles, you can do so here:
http://blog.greenearthbamboo.com/archives/1
Posted by: twitter.com/grnearthbamboo | October 05, 2009 at 01:23 PM
Agreed that the most serious environmental impact of textile is in its 'use phase'. That is, depending on the production technology used in the first instance to produce the textile.
One cannot oppose the fact that mechanical production of bamboo textile is greener than the chemical process!
From a broader perspective, however, the e co-friendliness of bamboo textile cannot be overemphasized given the fact that the stock grows wild and without any chemical inputs.
Posted by: Ngaahmoses | February 03, 2010 at 08:17 AM
Bamboo is a very good material. It is amazing for clohtes and towels. I love this post#! :)
http://www.goecostore.co.uk/bamboo-clothing-1104-0.html
Posted by: Nigel Plant | March 21, 2010 at 12:43 PM
Hi! Can you please tell me does it mean that Linda Loudermilk, Viridis Luxe and some other high quality eco-fashion brands produce rayon? And call it "bamboo"? This is very important because i actually buy bamboo clothing sometimes and if i discover that this bamboo is a "greenwash" i will be very disappointed. Because those pieces weren't cheap at all...
I trust certain brands like Fin Oslo for example... But my trust is not supported by anything, I do not know and cannot be sure how a particular garment has been produced, i only get the end result, finished product. Is there any difference in feel to skin between "genuine bamboo" and rayon? Is there any consumer guide that I can refer to? Are there list of companies or brands that are making genuine bamboo clothing? Or should I just rule all bamboo out and avoid it altogether, because rayon is not even biodegradable and polluting to the environment (thing im most concerned about).
I dont want to waste money on something that is a lie...
Posted by: eqv_libria | March 28, 2010 at 01:38 AM
Its good that you gave very clear details on how chemically processed bamboo is processed into textile. It is eye opening to what extent it is processed. I also love reading the comments here I can really feel that in the end all we want is the best for our nature and future. And so we shall push our governments all around the world to adopt policies that will protect our environment.
Posted by: Account Deleted | April 28, 2010 at 09:20 PM
Very imformative article. I have just started carrying bamboo as part of my efforts to be more eco friendly. Found a really neat bamboo clothing line that is actually about 95% bamboo. I thought that wasn't possible, but they combine it with Lycra and it makes a really soft airy, kind of stretchy fabric. It's perfect for baby wear. You can see it at http://www.ecobabychicorganics.com/servlet/the-By-Brands-cln-Kicky-Pants/Categories
Posted by: Rebecca | May 15, 2010 at 01:53 PM
I am not sure why people think that GreenYarn is more eco-friendly - it too can be just rayon with the addition of bamboo charcoal. This isn't any more eco-friendly than rayon.
Posted by: Evelynoldroyd.wordpress.com | June 05, 2010 at 10:04 AM
This was really interesting to read. I bought some bamboo capris at a Living Green Expo recently and loved them. I had no idea about all of the controversy over bamboo; I'm going to be more thorough in my research before my next purchase. Thanks!
Suzanne
http://www.suzannesnorwex.com/
Posted by: Suzanne Holt | June 08, 2010 at 11:25 PM
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http://www.ugginbox.com/
Posted by: Account Deleted | September 01, 2010 at 04:14 AM