The following
apparel glossary contains terms that are generic to
clothing and the garment industry and some that are specific to
sustainable and organic
clothing and eco-fashion. We are working to create a reference
that explains many terms that you might encounter
when purchasing clothing to help buyers better
understand what they are purchasing. This is
especially important when buying over the Internet
where you have to rely more on descriptions.
Fabric and Fashion Glossary
Index
| A |
B | C |
D |
E |
F |
G |
H |
I |
J |
K |
L |
| M |
N |
O |
P |
Q |
R |
S |
T |
U |
V |
W |
X |
Y |
Z |
A
Abaca – A vegetable leaf fiber derived
from the Musa textilis plant. It is mainly
grown in the Philippines but is also found, in
smaller amounts, in Africa, Malaysia, Indonesia
and Costa Rica. The fiber is obtained from the
outer layer of the leaf. Processing occurs when it
is separated mechanically into lengths varying
from 3 to 9 feet. Abaca is very strong and has
great luster. It is very resistant to damage from
salt water.
Abrasion Resistance - The ability of a
fiber or fabric to withstand surface wear and
rubbing.
Absorbency - The ability of a fabric to
take in moisture. Absorbency is a very important
property, which effects many other characteristics
such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage,
stain removal, water repellency, and wrinkle
recovery.
Acetate - A manufactured fiber formed by a
compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters
and/or wood pulp, and acetic acid that has been
extruded through a spinneret and then hardened.
Acrylic - A manufactured fiber derived from
polyacrylonitrile. Its major properties include a
soft, wool-like hand, machine washable and
dryable, excellent color retention. Solution-dyed
versions have excellent resistance to sunlight and
chlorine degradation.
A-line gown - Form fitting bodices that
flare out from the waistline to a full skirt.
These gowns have a seamless waist.
A-line skirt - A skirt that is fitted at
the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip
shape at the hem.
Alpaca - True alpaca
is a hair fiber from the Alpaca animal, a member
of the Ilama family of the South American Andes
Mountains. Alpaca is imitated in wool, wool and
alpaca blends, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton
blends, and in synthetics fabrics. Alpaca is
fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. It
is very rich and silky with considerable luster
and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used, it
is inclined to be "boardy". It is strong and
durable. True alpaca is expensive and is often
blended with other fibers or imitated by synthetic
fibers. Alpaca is found in white, black, fawn or
gray. The fibers are less coarse than those of the
llama but are higher in tensile strength.
Alpaca is most commonly used in fabrics made into
sweaters, dresses, coats, and bedding batting.
Alpaca (Organic) - Free range roaming,
pasture rotation, distribution of the Alpaca’s
manure as fertilizer, fed no hormones, no chemical
dipping for ticks and parasites, no chemicals
ingredients are permitted on the land or animals.
Finer than cashmere, smoother than silk, softer
than cotton, stronger than mohair, warmer than
goose down and synthetic fabrics, and breathes
better than thermal knits. The fibers do not
have lanolin or other oils. Luxuriously soft
on your skin. Hypoallergenic and naturally
fire resistant and dust mite resistant.
Alpaca (Undyed) - The Natural Alpaca fiber
comes in the whitest white, to the most intense
black, including around twenty brown and gray
tones. Therefore, undyed color combinations are
very plentiful. By using undyed Natural Alpaca a
step is made to decrease the amount of chemical
runoff into the world’s water tables.
Angora - The hair of the Angora goat or the
Angora rabbit. The clipped fiber from a living
animal is also known as Angora mohair. Scoured
mohair appears smooth and white. It varies in
fineness and is highly resilient, very strong and
has high luster. Its value is determined by its
luster and not its softness. The Angora
rabbit is indigenous to Asia Minor and Turkey. It
is often blended and mixed with wool to lower the
price of the finished. Angora rabbit hair is
long, very fine, light weight, extremely warm and
fluffy. It has a tendency to shed and mat with
time. According to the U.S. Federal Trade
Commission, any apparel containing Angora rabbit
hair must be labeled as "Angora rabbit hair" on
the garment.
Appliqué - A cutout surface decoration that
is sewn or embroidered to a larger piece of
material.
Armure - Cotton, silk,
wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends. The
weave can be plain, twill, or rib, background
often has a small design either jacquard or dobby
made with warp floats on surface giving a raised
effect. Design is often in two colors and
raised. The name was derived from original fabric
which was woven with a small interlaced design of
chain armor and used for military equipment during
the Crusades. Often used in elegant evening
gowns, draperies, or upholstery.
Art Linen – A linen
woven with even threads that are especially good
for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the
yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or
colored. Has a soft finish.
Has been use for needlework.
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B
Back Coating - Fabric treated with sizing
on the back only to give added weight, strength
and opacity.
Back Drape - A length of material
attached either at the shoulder or the waist that
flows over the back to floor length. In some
cases it is removable.
Back yoke - A fitted or shaped piece at
the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of various
garments.
Ball Gown - Characterized by a very full
skirt that begins at the waist and continues to a
formal length. The skirt waist is seamed and
can be of various styles.
Ballerina Neckline - This is a low
neckline that usually occurs with strapless or
spaghetti strapped dresses.
Bamboo - A natural, renewable resource
that can be made into fabrics. Bamboo grows
very quickly and does not require fertilizers or
pesticides.
Barathea – A broken
ribbed weave from silk, rayon or acetate.
The fabric has granular texture achieved by the
short broken ribs in the filling direction. It is
a rich soft-looking, fine fabric.
Basket Weave - A variation of the plain
weave construction, formed by treating two or more
warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one
unit in the weaving process. Yarns in a basket
weave are laid into the woven construction flat,
and maintain a parallel relationship. Both
balanced and unbalanced basket weave fabrics can
be produced. Examples of basket weave construction
includes monk cloth and oxford cloth.
Basque waist / V-waist - This dropped
waist starts at or just below the natural
waistline and dips in the center creating a "V"
shape.
Bast Fiber - Strong, soft, woody fibers,
such as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which are
obtained from the inner bark in the stems of
certain plants.
Bateau Neck / Boat Neck - A high, wide,
straight neckline that runs straight across the
front and back, meeting at the shoulders with the
same depth in the front and back.
Batiste – A medium-weight, plain weave
fabric. Generally made from cotton, but can also
be made from rayon and wool. Named
after Jean Baptiste, a French linen weaver. Light
weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles
nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn
family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly
twisted, combed yarns and mercerized finish.
Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a
heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments
and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or
flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook
but finer and lighter in weight. Now usually made
of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in
filling direction.
Bayadere – Silk in a
crosswise rib (plain or twill weave). Has
brightly colored stripes in the filling direction.
Often black warp. The color effects are usually
startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India.
Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of
India, dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The
Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a
flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, spangles,
sequins, anklets. Used in blouses, dresses, and
evening wear.
Beaded - This refers to any style of fabric
that has beads embroidered into the design.
Beading can be done at the time the lace is made
or can be re-embroidered after the lace is made.
Bengaline - A fabric with a crosswise rib
and warp faced made from silk, wool, rayon,
synthetics and cotton, often in combination.
Bengaline was first made of silk in Bengal, India.
Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or
cotton dilling in the ribs which doesn't show.
It is difficult to make bound buttonholes in it.
Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly
fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut
to ribbon widths.
Besom Pockets - A pocket sewn inside the
garment with access through a welted slit-type
opening.
Bias Cut - Cut diagonally across the
grain of a fabric. Used to create garments
that follow the body curves closely. A bias
cut is any direction in the fabric which does not
exactly flow in the direction of the weft yarn
(vertical yarns) or warp yarns (horizontal yarns)
of a fabric. A true bias makes an angle of
45 degrees across the length and width of a
fabric. Fabric cut on a bias has maximum
stretch.
Bike Tards - A close-fitting, one-piece
garment from the top of the torso to be hem of the
shorts.
Birdseye - Cotton
and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton,
usually in a dobby weave with a smooth, clear
finish and small diamond-shaped figures with a dot
in the center of each. The pattern suggests
the eye of a bird. It is very soft,
light-weight, and absorbent. Birdseye is
woven with a loosely twisted filling to increase
absorbency and launders well. No starch is applied
because the absorption properties must be of the
best. Material must be free from any foreign
matter. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is
used for that purpose as well as very good
toweling. Often used as a summer dress fabric.
Blanket Stitch - A closely spaced stitch
that forms a line of closely spaced loops at the
edge. It is used in embroidery for purely
decorative purposes.
Blazer - A long-sleeved sports jacket
with labels.
Bleaching - Necessary process to remove the
natural and artificial impurities in fabrics to
obtain clear whites for even dyeing and printing.
Bleaching with hydrogen peroxide is the most
environmentally friendly way to whiten fabrics.
Hydrogen peroxide can help produce a white fabric
but not a bright white fabric.
Blend - A term applied to a yarn or a
fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In
blended yarns, two or more different types of
staple fibers are twisted or spun together to form
the yarn. Examples of a typical blended yarn or
fabric is polyester/cotton.
Bolero Jacket - A loose, waist-length
jacket open at the front.
Boot-Cut - Cut below the belly button
and slightly flares from the knee to the ankle.
Boucle - A knit or woven fabric made from a
rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has
a looped, knotted surface and is often used in
sportswear and coats. Made from wool, but
also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, and
some hair fibers. The name is French for
"buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed,
looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance
at intervals. Boucle yarns are usually
in both the filling and the warp. The fabrics are
usually springy to handle on account of the highly
twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect.
Often ravels easily.
Bourdon Stitching - A close, narrow row of
decorative raised stitching such as a monogram,
finished edge or accent.
Box-pleated - Two folds of fabric
brought together to form a pleat.
Broadcloth – Can
be manufactured from cotton and silk, and rayon
which are very different than wool broadcloth.
A plain weave tightly woven fabric, characterized
by a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually
the filling. Most cotton broadcloths are made with
a very fine crosswise rib weave. In cotton
it is made from either carded or combed yarns. The
filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer
than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it
is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread
count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down
to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached,
dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized.
Broadcloth tends to wear very well. If it is not
of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very
badly. The finest quality is made from Egyptian or
combed pima cotton - also sea island. Uses
include shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored
type in plain colors, blouses, summer wear of all
kinds.
Brocade - A heavy, exquisite, jacquard-type
fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral
design, generally made from silk, rayon, and
cotton in a Jacquard and dobby weave..
Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and
the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low
relief. Rich, heavy, elaborate design
effect. Sometimes with colored or metallic threads
making the design usually against a satin weave
background. This makes the figures stand out.
The figures in brocade are rather loose, while in
damask the figure threads are actually bound into
the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill
ground or twill on a satin ground and is often
reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage,
scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The
price range is wide. Brocade is believed to
come from the Latin name "brocade" which means to
figure. It is used in all types of
evening wear, church vestments, interior
furnishings, and state robes.
Brocatelle
- Originally supposed to be an imitation of
Italian tooled leather. Brocatelle, made
from silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics, has a
satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground.
It has a Jacquard weave on double or backed cloth.
It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of
warp-effect, usually in a satin weave
construction, on a filling effect background. True
brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and
linen warp and a silk and linen filling.
Present-day materials may have changed from the 13th
and 14th century fabrics, but they
still have the embossed figure in the tight,
compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is
sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows
patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a
sort of blistered effect.
Broomstick - A skirt or dress that is
characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled
material.
Buckram – Made from
cotton, linen, and synthetics in a plain, cheap,
low-textured, loose weave that is heavily sized
and stiff. Also, two fabrics are glued together.
One is an open weave and the other much finer.
Buckram is also made in linen in a single fabric.
Buckram is also called crinoline book muslin or
book binding. Named from Bokhara in Southern
Russia, where it was first made. It softens with
heat and can be shaped while warm
Burn-out - A brocade-like pattern effect
created on the fabric through the application of a
chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out
printing process. (Sulfuric acid, mixed into a
colorless print paste, is the most common chemical
used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be
created using this method. In these instances, the
chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in
the fabric in a specific design, where the
chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The
fabric is then over-printed with a simulated
embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect.
However, burn-out effects can also be created on
velvets made of blended fibers, in which the
ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester,
and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like
rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical
is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the
pile in those areas where the chemical comes in
contact with the fabric, but leave the ground
fabric unharmed.
Butcher Linen – Plain weave. It was
originally made with linen but is now created with
cotton or manufactured fibers. It launders well,
sheds dirt, and is exceptionally durable.
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C
Calendering - A process for finishing
fabrics in which such special effects as high
luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are
produced.
Calico – Cotton fabric
with a low-count, plain weave. It originated
in Calcutta, India, and is one of the oldest
cottons. Calico is rather coarse and
light in weight. The pattern is printed on one
side by discharge or resist printing so it
generally isn’t color fast. It is often
sized for crispness but washes out and requires
starch each time. Designs are often geometric in
shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds,
trees, and flowers. Calico is usually
inexpensive and similar to percale. Very little
true calico is on the market to-day, but the
designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold
as "calico print".
Cambric - A fine, thin, white linen or
cotton fabric that is soft, closely woven, and
light and has been treated to give it a slight
gloss. It is either bleached or piece dyed
and is highly mercerized and lint free. It is
calendered on the right side with a slight gloss.
Lower qualities have a smooth bright finish. It
is similar to batiste but is stiffer and with
fewer slubs. Cambric launders very
well, has good body, and sews and finishes well.
It was originally made in Cambria, France of linen
and used for Church embroidery, table
linens, handkerchiefs, underwear, slips,
nightgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts and
blouses. Normally used for pillow and duvet
shells.
Camisole - A short, sleeveless garment
for women.
Camocas – Another
largely historic fabric that was popular in the
14th and 15th centuries. It was a very beautiful
fabric which was often stripped with gold or
silver. It had a satin base and was diapered like
fine linen.
Camp Pockets - Pockets that are sewn to
the outside of the garment, usually squared off
and characterized by seaming.
Candlewick Fabric
- Made from cotton and sometimes wool. An
unbleached muslin bed sheeting (also called Kraft
muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille
effect is formed by application of candlewick
(heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to
give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn appearance of
true chenille yarn. True chenille is a
cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn which has a pile
protruding all around at slight angles and
stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French
word for caterpillar. Used in bedspreads,
drapes, housecoats, beach wear.
Canton Flannel – made
from cotton with a four harness warp-faced twill
weave. The filling yarn is a very loosely
twisted and soft and later brushed to produce a
soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size.
The face is twill and the fabric is heavy, warm,
strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China
where it was first made. Comes bleached,
unbleached, dyed, and some is printed. Used
in interlinings, sleeping garments, linings,
coverings, work gloves.
Canvas - A strong, durable, closely woven
cotton fabric.
Cap Sleeve - A small, short sleeve which
sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap
or falling on to the arm to provide minimal
coverage.
Capri Pants - Fairly straight-cut pants,
tapered to the mid-calf.
Cardigan Jacket - A usually collarless
sweater or jacket that opens the full length of
the center front.
Carding - A process of cleaning fibers by
separating and laying them parallel to each other.
Cargo - Characterized by sporting a
large pocket usually with a flap and a pleat.
Carpenter pants / shorts - Five-pocket
pants characterized by a "hammer holder," a
stretch of material connecting the outside seam to
the back pocket.
Cashmere (Kashmir) - A luxury fiber
obtained from the soft, fleecy undergrowth of the
Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran,
Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters,
shawls, suits, coats, and dresses.
The fiber is cylindrical, soft
and silken and is more like wool than any other
hair fiber. Has a very soft silky finish and is
very light in weight. It doesn't stand up to hard
wear because of its extremely soft downy finish.
The natural fiber is white, black, brown or gray
but can be died a variety of shades. It comes in
different weights.
Cathedral Train - Also known as a
monarch train. A cascading train extending
six to eight feet behind the gown. Often
used on wedding dresses.
Cellulose - A material derived from the
cell walls of certain plants such as hemp, flax,
bamboo and also trees. Cellulose is used in
the production of many vegetable fibers, as well
as being the major raw material component used in
the production of the manufactured fibers of
acetate, rayon, triacetate, and lyocell.
Chambray - A plain woven fabric that can be
made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers,
but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a
colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns.
Typically has a plain weave or dobby designs on a
plain-weave ground and is made with a dyed warp
and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded
and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some
chambray is woven with alternating white and
colored warp. Naturally has a "faded" look
and very soft coloring. Some is made with
stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong,
closely woven, soft and has a slight luster.
It wears well, is easy to sew, and launders well.
It wrinkles easily. Chambray riginated in Cobrai,
France, where it was first made for sunbonnets and
is used for children's wear, dresses, shirts and
blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.
Chamois Cloth – A
plain woven cotton fabric that is napped, sheared,
and dyed to simulate chamois leather. It is
stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more
durable than flannelette. Must be designated as
"cotton chamoise-color cloth".
Chamoisette – A
fine, firmly knit fabric made from cotton and
sometimes rayon and nylon in a knitted, double
knit construction. It has a very short soft
nap and wears well. Nylon chamoisette is more
often called "glove silk" and often used in
gloves.
Chantilly lace - This lace has a net
background, and the pattern is created by
embroidering with thread and ribbon to create
floral designs. The pattern has areas of design
that are very dense, and the pattern is often
outlined with heavier cords or threads.
Chapel Train - The most popular of all
train lengths. It flows from three to four
feet behind the gown.
Charmeuse - A lightweight, drapey fabric with is woven with a satin weave where the warp threads cross over three or more of the backing weft threads. This causes the front side to have a shiny, satiny finish and the back side to be more dull. Finer quality charmeuse is made of silk and rayon or polyester are used in lesser quality charmeuse. Originated as a French
lightweight silk that was recognized for it's
supreme luster and drapability. It is found in a variety of
solids and prints.
Cheesecloth –
Plain woven cotton fabric originally used as a
wrapping material for pressing cheese. It is
loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in
construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always
used. It is also called gauze weave. When an
applied finish is added, it is called buckram,
crinoline, or bunting.
Chemise / Skimmer - Simply a straight
unbelted dress with varying sleeves and length.
Chenille - Soft, fuzzy yarns stand out
around a velvety cord on this fabric, whose name
comes from the French word for caterpillar and the
fabric looks "hairy." Generally made
from cotton but can also be made from other
fibrics. Filling of chenille yarns (has a
pile protruding all around at right angles). Do
not confuse with tufted effects obtained without
the use of true Chenille filling.
Cheviot – Originally
made of wool in a twill weave from the Cheviot
sheep but now it is also made of blends, spun
synthetics, crossbred and reused wools. It
is very rugged with a harsh, uneven surface that
does not hold a crease and sags with wear. It
resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse
and will not shine because of the rough surface.
Cheviot is often sold as a homespun but true
homespun has a plain weave and very heavy.
Cheviot is also sold as a tweed.
Chinchilla – Usually made from wool but can
also be made in cotton, and some manmade and
synthetics. It has a sateen or twill construction
with extra fillings for long floats.
Thankfully, it does not resemble true chinchilla
fur but has small nubs on the surface of the
fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine.
It attacks the face and causes the long floats to
be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is
often used because it cannot show from either
side. Chinchilla takes its name from Chinchilla
Spain where it was invented,
Chiffon - A plain, woven, lightweight,
extremely sheer, transparent, airy, and soft silk
fabric, containing very fine, highly twisted
filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening
dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon
and other manufactured fibers. The tightly
twisted yarns could be either in the filling or
the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy
look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to
handle when sewing and it is best to baste the
pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has
slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to
shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc.,
because it is so limp.
Chiffon is French for "rag".
China Silk - Originally hand woven in China
of silk from the Bonabyx mori. China silk is
very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly
strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the
extreme lightness and softness are characteristic
of the fabric.
Chinchilla – A
cotton, wool, and even synthetic fabric of a
sateen or twill construction with extra fillings
for long floats. Thankfully, it does not
resemble true chinchilla fur. It has small nubs on
the surface of the fabric which are made by the
chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes
the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls.
Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show
from either side. It is made in medium and heavy
weights and is a very warm and cozy fabric. It
takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was
invented.
Chino – A cotton fabric of a left-handed
twill. Combined two-ply warp and filling.
Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in
China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for
uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in
England many years before and dyed olive-drab.
Fabric is mercerized and sanforized. Washes and
wears extremely well with a minimum of care.
Now you know the history of the popular chino
slacks.
Chintz - A usually glazed printed cotton
fabric with bright figures, large flower designs,
birds and other designs. It also comes in plain
colors. Chintz can use several types of glaze.
This glazed cotton is often printed with figures
and large flower designs. The wax and starch glaze
produced by friction or glazing calendars will
wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out
and withstand dry cleaning. Also comes
semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne.
It is named after the Indian word "Chint" meaning
"broad, gaudily printed fabric". Used widely in
upholstery fabric.
Chite - Painted linens that
originated in Chitta (India) in the 17th
century.
Column skirt / straight skirt - Also
referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a
straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem
or waistline.
Combing - A process for removing short
fibers. The process enables cotton to be spun into
very fine, lustrous yarns for high quality
fabrics.
Comfort Stretch - The term given to the
freedom of movement experienced in the wearing of
a garment that contains spandex, or has stretch
engineered into a yarn through mechanical stretch
construction.
Composite Fabric – In performance garments,
an engineered fabric made from two or more
components. One component is often a strong fiber
such as fiberglass, Kevlar®, or carbon fiber that
gives the material its tensile strength, while
another component (often called a matrix) is often
a resin, such as polyester or epoxy that binds the
fibers together.
Compression Fabric – In performance
garments, high tenacity stretch fabric which, when
in a close fitting garment, provides muscles with
a firm compression fit that lessons vibrations,
reduces fatigue, and keeps muscles energized. The
fabric is usually made in a knit construction,
using a series of gradient fibers with an open
knit inner surface to create a moisture transfer
environment.
Compression Stretch - The name given to the
expansive stretch that is created by the spandex
fibers used in the development of a compression
fabric for performance garments.
Convertible Collar - A rolled collar
that can be worn open or closed. Sewn
directly to the neckline.
Cool Colors Blue, violet and green
are cool or light colors. They are reducing
in nature, as seen by the eye they move away from
the object thereby increasing its size. Cool
colors have a calm and restful effect.
Corduroy – Typically
made of cotton but can be made of rayon and other
textiles. It has a filling pile with a plain
or twill back and is made with an extra filling
yarn. Corduroy is in the velvet family of fabrics
and it has narrow medium and wide wales, also
thick and thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales
have different widths and depths. Corduroy has to
be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of
it is washable, wears very well, and has a soft
luster.
Corset top / boned bodice - a
form-fitting, usually strapless bodice with boning
and either laces or snap closures, styled in the
fashion of the ladies undergarment of the same
name.
Cotton - A unicellular, natural fiber that
grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers
are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The
longest staple fibers, longer than 1-1/2 inch,
including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce
the highest quality cotton fabrics. It is
one of the world's major textile fibers.
There are four main types of cotton: American
Upland, Egyptian, Sea Island and Asiatic. The
flowers from which these different types of cotton
are obtained vary in color and texture, thus
providing each type of cotton with varying
characteristics. Cotton, in general, is very
elastic. It can withstand high temperatures, is
very washable and is very susceptible to dyes.
Cotton (Color grown) - Cotton plants that
are specifically bred to take advantage of their
natural coloring in shades of white, brown and
green. Fabrics are then created that use the
natural coloring and are completely free of dyes.
Color grown cotton can be grown in beautiful
natural colors such as honey, sage, and mocha.
Ancient Indians in South America were known to
have used color grown cotton. In the past decade,
these color grown cotton fibers have become
available once again for apparel manufacturing.
With the limitations of lower yields and shorter,
weaker fibers, color-grown cotton varieties have
had to go through an extensive breeding program to
improve their yield, fiber quality, color
intensity and color palette. Color grown
fabrics may contain certain natural variations in
color, light fastness and shrinkage.
Cotton (Green) - A marketing term referring
to cotton that is unbleached and undyed but grown
using toxic pesticides. Green cotton has not been
subjected to the harsh, toxic chemicals used
during the processing period. Because green
cotton has been grown using toxic insecticides,
herbicides and fertilizers, it is still a
contributor to the environmental damage and the
damage done to the health of the farm workers and
those that live in the nearby areas.
Cotton (Organic) - Cotton grown without any
harmful pesticides, herbicides or artificial
fertilizers using biologically based and
sustainable growing methods such as crop rotation
rather than with highly synthetic and destructive
fertilizers. Organic cotton is grown using
biologically based growing methods rather than
toxic synthetic fertilizers, soil additives or
defoliants. It is also free of formaldehyde
finishes. Organic Cotton wears well and is
extremely breathable, unlike synthetics that pill,
emit static electricity, prematurely age, and trap
perspiration. Cotton is commonly portrayed as
natural, yet conventional cotton is cultivated in
a highly toxic process, which contaminates
groundwater and ultimately drinking water and
poisons the food chain. While it takes
approximately one pound of chemicals to grow three
pounds of conventional cotton, organic cotton is
grown chemical free.
Cottagora - An extremely soft and
environmentally sound material made from a
combination of Angora rabbit hair and organic
cotton. Unlike traditional Angora, cottagora can
be machine washed and dried. It is also the
warmest natural fiber available and more durable
than any other elite wool. This is because the
Angora rabbit itself has three to four times as
many hairs per weight unit as sheep's wool.
Cottagora is also a breathable fabric, allowing
the body to maintain its natural temperature. It
is ideal for travel, as it is both versatile and
wrinkle free.
Cowl Neck - A neckline featuring a piece
of material attached to a garment at the neck,
which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a
swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front
neckline or back.
Crash –
A linen that is very rugged and
substantial in feel. Comes in white or natural
shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or
checked. The yarn is strong, irregular in diameter
but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.
Crepe - Used to describe all kinds of
fabrics--wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and
blends-that have a crinkle, crimped or grained
surface. Made from worsted cotton, wool,
silk, man-made synthetics. Has a crinkled,
puckered surface or soft mossy finish. All crepes
have a pebbled, rough feel and appearance due to
the yarns having a high twist in the filling or
the warp or both. Crepe comes in different weights
and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harsh dry
feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it
is fine, it drapes well. Crepe has very good
wearing qualities and a slimming effect in
garments. Most crepes launder well with
care.
Crepe back satin - A satin fabric in which
highly-twisted yarns are used in the filling
direction. The floating yarns are made with low
twist and may be of either high or low luster. If
the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric,
the fabric is called satin-back crepe. Satin
weave on the face and a crepe effect on the back
obtained with twisted crepe yarns in the filling -
2 or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is
a soft fabric which is reversible. It is usually
piece dyed. Very interesting effects can be
obtained in a garment by using both sides in
different parts of the garment, such as using the
crepe side for the body and trim or binding with
the satin part up.
Crepe de Chine
- Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling with more
ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand,
considerable luster, launders well, and is fairly
sheer. Made of raw silk or rayon, it is easy to
manipulate and handle and very long wearing.
Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight
rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called
"Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now
mostly made in rayon.
Crepe (Georgette
Crepe) - Lightweight, sheer fabric that is
more stiff and with body giving an exellent wear.
Has a dull, crinkled surface achieved by
alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both
warp and filling directions. Georgette has a
harder, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance
than crepe de chine.
Crepe (Flat Crepe)
- Also called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but
not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all
the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or
crepe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in
filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft
and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It
is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as
picks. Most of it launders well and is often used
in accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees,
pajamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings.
Crepe (Moss Crepe or
Sand Crepe) - Has a fine moss effect created
by plain weave or small Dobby. Made with a
spun-rayon warp and a filament rayon filling. The
two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and bulkier than
the filling. Mostly made in rayon and synthetics
but some in silk.
Crepon - Crepe effect
appears in direction of the warp and achieved by
alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different
degrees of twist. Originally a wool crepe but now
made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and
more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy
texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise
direction. Mostly used for prints in dresses and
ensembles.
Crettone – Made from
cotton, linen, rayon in a plain or twill weave.
Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp
counts are finer than the filling counts which are
spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives
good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright
colors and patterns. The fabric has no luster
(when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp
printed and if they are, they are usually
completely reversible. Designs run from the
conservative to very wild and often completely
cover the surface.
Crew Neck - A round neck with ribbed
banding that fits close to the base of the neck.
Crinkled - Forming many short bends or
ripples.
Crinoline - A very
loosely woven fiber with high rigidity. It is
smooth, stiff, and has excellent strength. It's
comes in a variety of shades from white to black.
Crocheted - Loose, open knit made by
looping thread with a hooked needle. Used for
light, summer sweaters.
Cropped top / jacket - Hem is cut just
above the waist.
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D
Damask - Made from linen, silk, rayon,
cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds and is woven on
a Jacquard loom that has an alternating satin and
matte texure. Originally made of silk, that
came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII
Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about
it. It is one of the oldest and most popular
cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs
are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the
better qualities are gross-bleached. It is
very durable, reversible fabric that sheds dirt.
In Damask fabric, the firmer the texture, the
better the quality. It launders well and
holds a high luster - particularly in linen.
The quality of Damask depends on the yarn used and
the thread count. - If the same quality and thread
count are used, single is better than double
because the shorter floats are more serviceable
and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with
less than 180 thread count is inappropriate for
clothing. LotusOrganics.com has some
excellent pajamas made from Damask manufactured by
Fisher-Henney.
Denier - A system of measuring the weight
of a continuous filament fiber. In the United
States, this measurement is used to number all
manufactured fibers (both filament and staple),
and silk, but excludes glass fiber. The lower the
number, the finer the fiber; the higher the
number, the heavier the fiber. Numerically, a
denier is the equivalent to the weight in grams of
9,000 meters of continuous filament fiber.
Denim - True denim is a twill-weave,
cotton-like fabric made with different colored
yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill
construction, one color predominates on the fabric
surface. Name derived from French "serge de
Nimes". Long wearing, it resists snags and tears.
Comes in heavy and lighter weights.
Diamond Neck - A diamond-shaped cutout
that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Dimity – Cotton fabric
made of combed yarn that comes in a plain weave
with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or
crossbar effect. A thin
sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be
single, double or triple grouping. Has a crisp
texture which remains fairly well after washing.
It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders
well. Dimity will crease unless treated to
become crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or
printed and often printed with a small rose-bud
design. It is mercerized and has a soft luster.
Dobby - Woven on a dobby loom, this fabric
can be made with a dot or geometric design. A
decorative weave, characterized by small figures,
usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric
structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or
compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine to
coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are
usually flat and relatively fine or sheer.
However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are
available for home furnishings and for heavy
apparel.
Doeskin – Made from
wool and also rayon in a harness satin weave or a
twill weave that is napped on one side.
Doeskin has a very smooth, lustrous surface made
with a slight short nap and compact weave to look
like fine leather. The weave is not visible
because of napping. Very high quality wool
is used. Doeskin needs care in handling.
Generally applied to a type of fabric finish in
which a low nap is brushed in one direction to
create a soft suede-like hand on the fabric
surface. End-uses include billiard table surfaces
and men's' sportswear.
Dolman Sleeve - Cut as an extension of
the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without
a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide
armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed
wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.
Domett Flannel – A
cotton fabric in a plain or twill. Can also
be spelled domet. Generally made in white. Has a
longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns
of medium or light weight are used to obtain the
nap. The term domett is interchangeable with
"outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain
weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate
the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed
before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed
and some printed and produced in a spun rayon
also.
Donegal Tweed – A
medium to heavy of plain or twill weave fabric in
which colorful yarn slubs are woven into the
fabric. Made from wool but can also be made from
rayons and cottons. It is mostly made from a
plain weave but can also be made in twill.
Donegal was originally a homespun woven by the
peasants in Donegal, Ireland and is a rough and
ready fabric that stands much hard wear. End-uses
include winter coats and suits. Yarns are coarse
with thick slubs and colored nubs. Now made in
other places as well - particularly England.
Dotted Swiss – A
lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric
with a plain weave with a small dot flock-like
pattern either printed on the surface of the
fabric, or woven into the fabric. Dots could be a
single color or multicolored. Placed regularly or
irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric
which may or may not be permanent. First made on
hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is
made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most
permanent. When hand woven with a swivel
attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the
back of the cloth. End-uses for this fabric
include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and
curtains.
Double-Breasted - Having one-half of the
front lapped over the other. Usually has a
double row of buttons and a single row of
buttonholes.
Double Cloth - A fabric construction, in
which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the
same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving
process, the two layers of woven fabric are held
together using binder threads. The woven patterns
in each layer of fabric can be similar or
completely different.
Doubleknit - A
woven fabric construction made by interlacing two
or more sets of warp yarns with two or more sets
of filling yarns. A weft knit fabric in which two
layers of loops are formed that cannot be
separated. Made from cotton, wool, worsted, silk,
rayon, and synthetics with a circular or
flat-needle bar type. A two faced cloth,
either face may be utilized as the right side. The
fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be
stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans
satisfactorily. A double knit machine, which has
two complete sets of needles, is required for this
construction.
Double-Tee Top - A layered look with one
T-shirt over another.
Double Weave - The most common double weave
fabrics are made using a total of either four or
five sets of yarns.
Doupion, Douppioni -
Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms
that have nested together. In spinning, the double
strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and
irregular with a large diameter in places.
The fabric is of silk made in a plain weave but is
very. It is imitated in rayon and some
synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni".
Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. It
tailors very well.
Draped Bodice - An extra piece of
material is draped over the bustline.
Drill – Cotton twill. Left-hand twill. It
has closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium
weight and course yarns are used. Also made in
some other weights. Some left in the gray but can
be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki color,
drill is also called "khaki".
Dropped Shoulders - Characterized by the
shoulder / sleeve seam falling off the shoulder.
Dropped Waist / Low Waist - A waistline
that is sewn below the body's natural waistline.
Duck - A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave,
bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish.
The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is
widely used in men's and women's slacks, and
children's playclothes.
Dupioni - Similar to shantung, this
textured fabric is recognized by irregular-sized,
thick fibers woven into the base fabric. Fibers
that create the texture, are thicker and heavier
than those used in shantung.
Durability - The ability of a fabric to
resist wear through continual use.
Durable Press - A treatment applied to the
fabric in the finishing process in which it
maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists
wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during
laundering.
Duvetyn(e) – A
good quality wool. If it is made in cotton, it is
usually called suede cloth. Duvetyn has a
close satin weave that is brushed, singed, and
sheared to conceal the weave. It has a
smooth plush appearance resembling a compact
velvet and is similar to wool broadcloth but
heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality,
soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily
and care must be taken when handling it. Back is
often slightly napped also. Name derived from the
French word "duvet" meaning "down".
Dyes (Fiber Reactive) - The
molecules of fiber reactive dyes actually react
and bond to the fiber molecules. These dyes
are the best quality and most ecologically sound
synthetic dyes available. They contain no
heavy metals or other known toxic substances.
The colors are brighter, richer, and exhibit
superior colorfast properties. Very little
residual dye comes out in the waste water.
Significantly more costly than using conventional
direct dyes but the quality and ecological
benefits are far superior.
Dyes (Low Impact) - Dyes that are more
environmentally friendly than conventional dyes
because they contain no metals, low salt, AZO &
dioxazines compound free. Called "Low
Impact" because they use less water to disperse
the dye, so less dye is used and waste water is
carefully filtered to remove as many of the dye
particles as possible. Low impact dyes require
significantly less water for the dyeing process so
there is much less polluted runoff than from the
conventional dye process. Organic cotton and
most other fabrics can be successfully colored
with all natural or fiber-reactive low impact
dyes. They are the highest quality, most
ecologically friendly dyes available, producing
colors that are both richer and brighter than
conventional dyeing practices. These dyes reduce
water and electricity consumption and discharge
60% less toxic runoff into the waste stream. They
promote healthy ecosystems by using fewer
resources and less energy while providentially
allowing greater adherence of the dye to the
garment.
Dyes (Natural) - Pigments are derived from
organic materials such as vegetables, berries,
bugs, clay, indigo, and other plant extracts to
dye fabric. The weakness of natural dyes has been
that many natural dyes are not color-fast and wash
out of the garments quickly. Clay dyes are
some of the best in retaining their color across
repeated washings.
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E
Eco Fashion - The term has been coined to refer
to fashionable and stylish clothing that has been
manufactured using environmentally- friendly
processes under Free Trade conditions. Eco
fashion clothing can use recycled clothing and
even recycled materials such as eco-fleeced
produced from recycled plastic soda bottles.
Eco fashion is not necessarily made from organic
fibers and is not necessarily healthy for people
with chemical sensitivities.
Eco-fleece - A nubby, soft fabric made from
recycled soda bottles. Every time you purchase
something from eco-fleece you are contributing to
saving another piece of the earth, which would
otherwise be used as landfill. Of course,
you are also wearing plastic from old soda
bottles.
Eco Wool – Sheared from free range roaming
sheep that have not been subjected to toxic flea
dipping, and have not been treated with chemicals,
dyes, or bleaches. Eco wool comes in natural
tones of white, grey and black.
Elasticity - The ability of a fiber or
fabric to return to its original length, shape, or
size immediately after the removal of
stress/tension.
Elastin - A protein that is similar to
collagen and is the chief constituent of elastic
fibers.
Embossing - A pressure process using
engraved rollers and heat application to produce
raised or relief patterns on the surface of the
fabric.
Embroidered - An embellishment of a fabric
or garment in which colored threads are sewn into
the fabric to create a design. Embroidery may be
done either by hand or machine.
Embroidery - An embellishment of a fabric
or garment in which colored threads are sewn on to
the fabric to create a design. Embroidery may be
done either by hand or machine.
Empire Bodice - A bodice that ends just
below the bust, sometimes low-cut and gathered.
Empire Seams - A seam that is sewn
directly below the bustline.
Empire Waist - This waistline begins
just below the bust.
Eolienne - It's name comes
from the term Eolus, which is Greek for God of
Winds. This airy fiber has a low thread count and
is very delicate. It is lightweight and is very
lustrous.
Eponge (Souffle) – A
fabric of wool, also of rayon and silk. The
name is derived from the French term eponge for
"spongy". It is a very soft and sponge-like
fabric in a variety of novelty effects with loose
weave. It is also known as ratine in cotton.
The fabric in rayon and silk is soft, loose, and
spongy, something like terry cloth. It does
not have surface loops. Many stores now call
eponge "boucle".
Etamine – A twill originally made of wool,
cotton or linen and used for sifting. It is now a
worsted fabric with a very short nap and light in
weight used for clothing.
Eyelet - A style of decorative fabric
stitched with small cut out openings. A type of
fabric which contains patterned cut-outs, around
which stitching or embroidery may be applied in
order to prevent the fabric from raveling.
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F
Face - The right side or the better-looking
side of the fabric.
Facing - A piece of fabric that is sewn to
the collar, front opening, cuffs, or arms eye of a
garment to create a finished look.
Faconne - Silk or
rayon with a figured weave or "burnt-out" finish.
Faconne in French, means fancy weave. It has small
designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in
weight, and could be slightly creped. Background
is more sheer than the designs, therefore the
designs seem to stand out. It is very effective
when worn over a different color and it drapes,
handles, and wears well.
Fagotting - an embroidery produced by
pulling out horizontal threads from a fabric and
tying the remaining cross threads into groups of
an hourglass shape.
Faille - A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed,
silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk, or
manufactured fibers, especially rayon. It
has a crosswise rib weave and the soft material
drapes well. It is finer than grosgrain and with
flatter ribs. It is difficult to launder but will
give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous
finish.
Faux fur - Artificial fur made from
synthetic material.
Felt – Made from wool,
reprocessed wool, reused wool, or scrap fiber, and
can be mixed with other such as fibers, cotton, or
rayon. Felt fabric is not woven but felted.
It is a very compact fabric in various weights and
thicknesses and has grain so can be cut any way.
Felt needs no hemming or finishing because it does
not fray. It has many industrial uses such as
piano hammers and in the printing industry.
Fiber - The basic entity, either natural or
manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and
then used in the production of a fabric.
Fiberfill - Specially engineered
manufactured fibers, which are used as filler
material in pillows, mattresses, mattress pads,
sleeping bags, comforters, quilts, and outerwear.
Filament - A manufactured fiber of
indefinite length (continuous), extruded from the
spinneret during the fiber production process.
Filling - In a woven fabric, the yarns that
run cross the fabric from selvage to selvage, and
which run perpendicular to the warp or lengthwise
yarns. Also referred to as the weft.
Findings - Any extra items attached to a
garment during the manufacturing process. This can
include trims, buttons, hooks, snaps, or
embellishments.
Finished Fabric - A fabric that has gone
through all the necessary finishing processes, and
is ready to be used in the manufacturing of
garments.
Fishtail Train - Fitted around the hips
and flares out from the knee to the hemline.
Fitted Point Sleeve - A long, narrow
sleeve that tapers to a point which rests against
the back of the hand.
Flame Resistant - A term used to describe a
fabric that burns very slowly, or has the ability
to self-extinguish upon the removal of an external
flame.
Flame Retardant - A chemical applied to a
fabric, or incorporated into the fiber at the time
of production, which significantly reduces a
fabric's flammability.
Flannel - A warm, soft fabric of wool,
worsted, cotton or rayon made in tightly woven
twill or plain weave and finished with a light
napping. Flannel originated in Wales and has
a soft, napped surface that partially cancels the
weave. Has a dull finish and is made
in a variety of weights. It is more loosely
woven than worsted flannel with a higher nap and
bulkier hand. Flannel shrinks if not
pre-shrunk and sags with wear, unless underlined.
Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing -
if pressed too hard, it flattens in the nap.
Flannel comes in many colors, weights, and fancy
effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn.
Flannel (Worsted) – It has a twill weave a
is made in a variety of weights. It is more
closely woven and harder than wool flannel and can
have a very slight nap on one side. It
tailors and presses very well and holds a hard
crease.
Flannelette - A
heavy, soft cotton material with a napped finish,
usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the
nap comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate
and is warm to wear. There are many types on the
market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or
woven in colored stripes.
Flax - Flax is taken
from the stalk of the Linum usitaatissimum plant.
It is a long, smooth fiber and is cylindrical in
shape with a length varying from 6 to 40 inches
but averaging between 15 and 25 inches. The color
is usually off-white or tan and due to it's
natural wax content, flax has excellent luster. It
is considered to be the strongest of the vegetable
fibers and is highly absorbent, allowing moisture
to evaporate with speed. It conducts heat well and
can be readily boiled. It is very washable but has
poor elasticity and does not easily return to its
original shape after creasing. When processed into
a fabric it is called linen
Fleece - A soft, bulky, deep-piled knitted
or woven fabric of wool or cotton in a plain,
twill, pile or knitted weave. Fleece has a
deep, soft nap or pile obtained by heavily napping
with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This
provides air space giving good insulating
properties without too much weight. The
inter-lacing space is covered by the nap. The nap
wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives
good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes.
Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore
it may be difficult to manipulate.
Flocking - A type of raised decoration
applied to the surface of a fabric in which an
adhesive is printed on the fabric in a specific
pattern, and then finely chopped fibers are
applied by means of dusting, air-brushing, or
electrostatic charges. The fibers adhere only to
the areas where the adhesive has been applied, and
the excess fibers are removed by mechanical means.
Foil - A thin piece of material put under
another material to add color or brilliance.
Foulard – A twill
weave in silk, rayon, or very fine, worsted
cotton. A very soft, light fabric that is
noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually
printed with small figures on a dark or light
background and is similar to Surah and Tie Silk,
but finer. It was originally imported from India
to be used in dresses, robes, scarves, and
neckwear of all kinds.
Frise – Often made from
rayon but can also be made from mohair, silk and
synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are
usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp is
combined with the cotton. It has a pile (looped)
weave with uncut loops. It can be patterned
by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some
made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of
a pattern. Typically used in upholstery, Frise
is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to
a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woolen overcoating
fabric which originated in Friesland Holland.
Often used for overcoating material for soldiers.
Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable
and is called "cotha more".
Flat-Front Pants - Straight pants, often
seamless and without pockets.
Form-Fitting / Slim Fit - Straight from
waist to ankle except for a slight curve around
the hip.
Forte of a garment - The strong point of
the garment.
Frey - Threads which come out from the
fabric during handling.
Frog Closure - Chinese closing of
decorative cording or braid. A soft ball of
cording or a button is used to complete the
closure.
Fustian - Cotton or
cotton with linen or flax in a cross woven weave.
It was originally made in Fustat near Cairo, from
which it gets its name.
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G
Gabardine - A tightly woven, twilled,
worsted fabric in cotton, rayon or a blend
with slight diagonal lines on the face and a
raised twill. Wool gabardine is known as a
year-round fabric for business suits and wears
extremely well. It has a clear finish,
tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous, but
it can be given a dull finish. Inclined to shine
with wear and is hard to press properly.
Used in men's and women's tailored suits, coats,
raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts.
Gattar – A satin made
with a cotton filling and a silk warp. It is only
found in solid colors and is known for its elegant
luster and excellent drapability. It is famous for
elegant evening wraps.
Gauge - A measurement most commonly
associated with knitting equipment. It can mean
the number of needles per inch in a knitting
machine. However, in full fashioned hosiery and
sweater machines, the number of needles per 1-1/2
inches represents the gauge.
Gauntlets - Dress gloves extending above
the wrist.
Gaucho - Wide-legged pants or divided
skirt reaching mid-calf and worn with boots.
Gauze - A thin, sheer plain-weave fabric
made from cotton, wool, silk, rayon, or other
manufactured fibers. End-uses include curtains,
apparel, trimmings, and surgical dressings.
Georgette - A sheer lightweight fabric,
often made of silk or from such manufactured
fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface.
End-uses include dresses and blouses.
It is characterized by crispness, body and
outstanding durability. It is sheer and has a dull
face.
Geotextiles - Manufactured fiber materials
made into a variety of fabric constructions, and
used in a variety civil engineering applications.
Gingham – A
medium-weight, plain-weave fabric with a plaid or
check pattern made from cotton or synthetics
fibers. The word is derived from Italian "Ging-gang"
meaning "striped". Medium or fine yarns of
varying quality are used to obtain the checks,
plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is
yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are
usually balanced and if checks of two colors,
usually same sequence in both the warp and the
filling. It is strong, substantial, and
serviceable. It launders well but low textured,
cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless
preshrunk. Has a soft, dull luster surface that
wrinkles easily. Tissue or zephyr ginghams are
sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher
thread count.
Glass Fiber - An inorganic fiber which is
very strong, but has poor flexibility and poor
abrasion resistance. Glass will not burn and will
not conduct electricity. It is impervious to
insects, mildew, and sunlight. Today, the primary
use of glass fiber is in such industrial
applications as insulation or reinforcement of
composite structures.
Grain - Another word used for the
length-wise (weft yarn) or the cross-wise /
horizontal (warp yarn) threads of the fabric.
Granada – A twill whose name is derived
from the Latin word Granum, which refers to
the grainy quality of the textile. This granular
quality is achieved by a broken twill weave. It is
made of a cotton warp and alpaca or mohair
filling. This fiber is exceptionally fine.
Greige Goods (pronounced "gray") - An
unfinished fabric, just removed from a knitting
machine or a loom. Loom state of cloth that has
not received dry and wet finishing.
Grenadine - A fine
fiber originated in Italy. It can be made in
various fibers such as cotton, wool, silk or
synthetics. It is well know for its stiffness and
often used women's clothing.
Gusset - Refers to mattress depth.
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H
Halter Top - A sleeveless bodice with
a high choke or wrap neck that may be backless.
Hand - The way the fabric feels when it is
touched. Terms like softness, crispness, dryness,
silkiness are all terms that describe the hand of
the fabric.
Handkerchief Style - The hem of a blouse
or skirt that is gently jagged to form flowing
points.
Haute Couture - French (of course) that
literally means "high fashion". Haute
couture garments are always one-off,
one-of-a-kind. They're extravagant, often
irrational, always unique and totally
unaffordable. Famous eco haute couture
designers include Linda Loudermilk, Katharine
Hamnet, and Deborah Lindquist.
Heather - A yarn that is spun using
pre-dyed fibers. These fibers are blended together
to give a particular look. (For example, black and
white may be blended together to create a gray
heathered yarn.) The term, heather, may also be
used to describe the fabric made from heathered
yarns.
Hemp - Hemp is a bast
fiber that was probably used first in Asia. The
fiber is dark tan or brown and is difficult to
bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colorrs.
The hemp fibers vary widely in length, depending
upon their ultimate use. Industrial fibers may be
several inches long, while fibers used for
domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch
(1.9 to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6
percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The
thermal reactions of hemp and the effect of
sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth
resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew.
Coarse hemp fibers and yarns are woven into
cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins.
In Italy, fine hemp fibers are used for interior
design and apparel fabrics. Hemp is a very
durable fiber that holds its shape. It grows
without the use of pesticides, herbicides or
chemical fertilizers and can withstand harsh
growing seasons. Hemp cultivation does not
exhaust, but rather continuously fertilizes the
soil by shedding its leaves throughout its growing
period. In this way, it actually returns nutrients
to the soil, helping to reduce the energy demand
on the Earth. It is also naturally UV resistant
and dries quickly.
Hem Stitching - A decorative stitching
along the stitching lines of hems and borders to
create an open weave pattern.
Henequinn - It
is obtained from the leaves of the Agave
fourcroydes plant, which is native to Mexico.
It is produced by mechanically decorticating the
leaves into strands from 4 to 5 feet.
Henrietta – A twill originally consisting
of worsted filling and silk warp. Today, it can be
found in a variety of blends. It has excellent
drapability. Its weight and quality vary with
fibers, however, when created with silk and wool
it is lustrous and soft. Often used for dress
goods.
Herringbone Twill
- A variation on the twill weave construction in
which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular
intervals, producing a zig-zag effect. Named after
the skeleton of the Herring fish as this is what
the fiber pattern resembles. It is usually created
in wool and has varying qualities. It is also
known as Arrowhead and is commonly used in suits,
top coats and sport coats.
Hickory Cloth – A twill known for its
excellent durability. It is warp striped and comes
in a variety of colors. It usually is created with
cotton and found in work clothes.
High Loft - General term for a fiber
structure containing more air than fiber. In
general, higher loft retains more warmth.
Hip Pockets - Pockets sewn on the front
of a garment at hip height.
Hollywood Waistband - Characterized by a
full elasticized back and a side zipper / button
closure.
Homespun - Cotton or
wool in plain weave with coarse, rugged yarn.
Originally an undyed woolen cloth spun into yarn
and woven in the home, by peasants and country
folk the world over. Has substantial appearance
and serviceable qualities. Homespun is made with
irregular, slightly twisted uneven yarns. Has a
spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance.
Genuine homespun is produced in a very limited
quantity and powerloom cloth is often sold as
genuine homespun. Many qualities of homespun cloth
are made but the best is an ideal rough-and-ready
type of cloth.
Honey Comb A float weave made in many
fabrics. The name comes from a French word
meaning birds nest. Its patterns are regular and
open. Honey comb fabric is also known as Diamond
Weave. It is found in draperies, jackets and
women's clothing.
Hong Kong - A ribbed fabric
usually found in plain colors. It comes in a
variety of qualities but the best type is made out
of silk.
Hook & Eye Closure - a two-part
fastening device consisting of a metal hook that
catches over a bar or into a loop
Hopsacking – Can
be made from cotton, wool, linen, rayon, silk,
hemp, or jute in a basket weave and made with
coarse yarn. Has a rather rough texture and is
quite durable and often bulky.
Houndstooth –
Commonly made with wool with a broken twill weave
that has been woven into an irregular check of a
four pointed star.
Houndstooth Check - A variation on the
twill weave construction in which a broken check
effect is produced by a variation in the pattern
of interlacing yarns, utilizing at least two
different colored yarns.
Huckaback – Made
from linen or cotton in a dobby or basket weave.
It is strong, but rough in the surface finish.
Has variation in weaves but most have small
squares on the surface that stand out from the
background. The motif is made from a series of
floats, some of them rather long, which gives a
loose effect in certain areas. This, if well
spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.
Mostly used for towels.
Hydrophilic Fibers - Fibers that absorb
water easily, take longer to dry, and require more
ironing.
Hydrophobic Fiber - Fibers that lack the
ability to absorb water.
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I
Illusion Bodice - A bodice made of sheer
material giving the illusion of no bodice.
Illusion Sleeve - A sleeve made of sheer
material giving the illusion of no sleeve.
Intarsia - A colored design knitted on both
sides of a fabric.
Interlining - An insulation, padding, or
stiffening fabric, either sewn to the wrong side
of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell
fabric. The interlining is used primarily to
provide warmth in coats, jackets, and outerwear.
Interfacing - Fabrics used to support,
reinforce and give shape to fashion fabrics in
sewn products. Often placed between the lining and
the outer fabric., it can be made from yarns or
directly from fibers, and may be either woven,
nonwoven, or knitted. Some interfacings are
designed to be fused (adhered with heat from an
iron), while others are meant to be stitched to
the fashion fabric.
Interlock - The stitch variation of the rib
stitch, which resembles two separate 1 x 1 ribbed
fabrics that are interknitted. Plain (double knit)
interlock stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and
more stable than single knit constructions.
Ixtle - Made
from linen or cotton with a dobby or basket weave.
It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but
finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has
variation in weaves but most have small squares on
the surface that stand out from the background.
It comes in white, colors, or colored borders, and
stripes. The motif is made from a series of
floats, some of them rather long, which gives a
loose effect in certain areas. This, if well
spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.
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J
Jacquard - Woven fabrics manufactured by
using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This
attachment provides versatility in designs and
permits individual control of each of the warp
yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or
complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are
types of jacquard woven fabrics. The loom produces
elaborate cloth weaves such as tapestries,
brocades, and damask fabrics.
Jacquard Knit - A weft double knit fabric
in which a Jacquard type of mechanism is used.
This device individually controls needles or small
groups of needles, and allows very complex and
highly patterned knits to be created.
Jersey - The consistent interlooping of
wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics
yarns in the jersey stitch to produce a fabric
with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but
uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on
either circular or flat weft knitting machines.
Right side has lengthwise ribs (wales) and wrong
side has crosswise ribs (courses). Jersey is
very elastic with good draping qualities and has
special crease-resistant qualities due to its
construction. It is knitted plain or has many
elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well
as printed designs. It can look very much
like a woven fabric. Jersey wears very well and,
if washable, it washes very well. Jersey was first
made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast
and used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you
sew.
Jersey Fabric - The consistent interlooping
of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric
with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but
uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on
either circular or flat weft knitting machines.
Jersey Stitch - A basic stitch used in weft
knitting, in which each loop formed in the knit is
identical. The jersey stitch is also called the
plain, felt, or stockinet stitch.
Jewel Neck - A high round neckline
resting simply at the base of the neck.
Jusi Banana Fabric - Not all Jusi is
made out of banana leaves. Some Jusi is made
from silk worm cocoons.
Jute and Burlap
Jute is used in textiles for interiors, especially
for wall hangings and a group of bright,
homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings.
Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color,
with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of
fiber held together by gummy substances that are
pectinaceous in character. It is difficult to
bleach, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or
natural brown. Jute reacts to chemicals in the
same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good
resistance to microorganisms and insects. Moisture
increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute
will last for a very long time. Jute works well
for bagging, because it does not extend and is
somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep
stacks of bags in position and resist slippage.
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K
Kangaroo Pocket - A pocket formed by sewing
a piece of cloth over the garment leaving two open
ends.
Kapok - A short, lightweight, cotton-like,
vegetable fiber found in the seed pods of the Bombocaceae tree. Because of its brittle quality,
it is generally not spun. However, its buoyancy
and moisture resistance makes it ideal for use in
cushions, mattresses, and life jackets.
Kasha (Casha) - Made from either a blend of
cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.
Kenaf - A bast fiber
obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus
plant. The stalk of this plant varies in height
from 8 to 12 feet and is about half an inch in
diameter. Kenaf is mostly produced in India and
Pakistan but also grows in Africa, South East
Asia, Indonesia, Russia, Mexico, the Philippines,
and Cuba. Used as a substitute for Jute.
Keyhole Neck - A tear shaped or round
cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Kimono - A long Japanese robe with wide
sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash.
Knit - Fabrics made from only one set of
yarns, all running in the same direction. Some
knits have their yarns running along the length of
the fabric, while others have their yarns running
across the width of the fabric. Knit fabrics are
held together by looping the yarns around each
other. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting
fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise
in the fabric; courses run crosswise.
Knit-de-knit - A type of yarn texturizing
in which a crimped yarn is made by knitting the
yarn into a fabric, and then heat-setting the
fabric. The yarn is then unraveled from the fabric
and used in this permanently crinkled form.
Knit Fabrics - Fabrics made from only one
set of yarns, all running in the same direction.
Some knits have their yarns running along the
length of the fabric, while others have their
yarns running across the width of the fabric. Knit
fabrics are held together by looping the yarns
around each other. Knitting creates ridges in the
resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run
lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise.
Knitted - Formed by interlacing yarn or
thread in a series of connected loops with
needles.
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L
Lace - An ornamental braid for trimming.
Lambswool - This is
the wool that is taken from sheep before they
reach the age of 7 months. It is soft, slippery,
resilient and smooth and has superior spinning
properties. It is used in fine grade woolen
fabrics.
Lame like glotique - A woven fabric using
flat silver or gold metal threads to create either
the design or the background in the fabric.
Latex - Used to provide stretch to
fabrics. 100% natural latex contains no
synthetic ingredients. Blended latex, also
know as Styrene Butadiene Rubber (SBR), is
produced with petrochemicals and doesn't not have
the resilience properties that 100% natural latex
has. In Europe, anything that has at least
20% natural latex is considered natural.
Lawn - A light, fine cloth made using
carded or combed linen or cotton yarns in a plain
weave. The fabric has a crease-resistant, crisp
finish. The name derived from Laon, a city in
France, where linen lawn was manufactured
extensively. It is light weight, sheer, soft, and
washable. It is crispier than voile but not as
crisp as organdy. When made with fine high count
yarns, it has asilky feel. Comes in white or may
be dyed or printed. When made with combed yarns
with a soft feel and slight luster, it is called
nainsook.
Leatherette - Simulated leather.
Leno Weave - A construction of woven
fabrics in which the resulting fabric is very
sheer, yet durable. In this weave, two or more
warp yarns are twisted around each other as they
are interlaced with the filling yarns; thus
securing a firm hold on the filling yarn and
preventing them from slipping out of position.
Also called the gauze weave. Leno weave fabrics
are frequently used for window treatments, because
their structure gives good durability with almost
no yarn slippage, and permits the passage of light
and air.
Light Weight - Having an airy weave. Used
as a light weight base layer in apparel for
aerobic activities and cool weather.
Linen - A fabric made from linen fibers
obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax
plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more
lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool
and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless
blended with manufactured fibers.
Linen
(Non-crushable) – A specially treated linen that
is washable, durable and highly resistance to
wrinkling. This finish provides greater resilience
and elasticity.
Lining - A fabric that is used to cover the
inside of a garment to provide a finished look.
Generally, the lining is made of a smooth lustrous
fabric.
Llama – Llamas are
found mainly in South America and the color of
their hair may vary from white to brown and black.
This fiber has impressive luster and warmth and is
very light weight.
Lock Stitch - A type of stitch consisting
of two threads that are interlocked at short
intervals. A lock-stitched terry does not pull
easily.
Loft - High loft is thick and fluffy, low
loft is thin and dense. The higher the loft, the
better the insulation characteristic.
Longcloth – A soft,
high quality cotton and cotton blend fabric with a
moderate luster.
Loom - A machine used for weaving fabrics.
Lycra - A DuPont trademark for its spandex
fiber. Any time you see this fiber listed on a
label, expect comfort, movement, and shape
retention that won't wash away. Lycra
increases the life of a garment, making it more
sustainable. It adds stretch and versatility and
contributes to a wider array of fashion
fabrications.
Lyocell Fiber - A manufactured fiber
composed of regenerated cellulose. Lyocell has a
similar hand and drape as rayon, but is stronger,
more durable, and in many cases machine washable.
It has a subtle luster and is rich in color.
Lyocell possesses low shrinkage characteristics,
as well as good absorbency and wrinkle resistant
qualities.
Luster Fabric -
Created using warp threads of cotton or synthetic
fibers with high luster such as worsted or mohair
yarn.
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M
Mackinaw –
Historically, it was made from an ordinary grade
of wool that often had shoddy re-used or
remanufactured wool mixed in. A twill weave where
the weave is concealed. Mackinaw is heavily
fulled or felted and napped on both sides to
conceal the weave. Much of the fabric is in a
plaid or large check design or brightly colored,
or with different colors on each side.
Mackinaw is heavy and thick, very similar to
melton. It is named after MacKinac Island,
Michigan and is also called snow cloth. It
was used by miners, lumbermen, hunters, trappers,
fishermen, and cowboys in jackets, mackinaws and
coats. It was also used for blankets, shirts, and
some heavy sportswear, and windbreakers.
Mackinaw is another fabric that has been replaced
by more modern, lighter and warmer synthetics and
blends.
Macrame – A hand
woven and knotted lace originally made in Arabia
but later made in Italy. Macrame was popular
during the ‘60s and early 1970s for pot hangers,
curtains, shawls and scarves.
Madras – A lightweight plain weave cotton
fabric with a striped, plaid, or checked pattern.
A true madras will bleed when washed. This type of
fabric is usually imported from India. End-uses
are men's and women's shirts and dresses.
Generally cotton although can also be made from
rayon and silk. Plain weave or can be a
dobby or jacquard weave used for designs.
Originated in Madras (now called Chenia), India
and it is a very old cloth. Much of it has a plain
colored background with stripes, plaid, checks, or
designs on it. Has a high thread count.
Madras is made with combed or carded yarns
depending on the quality. Some is mercerized to
make it lustrous and durable. Often the dyes are
not fast and with each washing, color changes take
place.
Maillot - A woman's one-piece bathing
suit.
Mandarin Collar - A short, stand-up
collar, adopted from the close-fitting Asian
collar.
Marabou - A thrown silk usually dyed in the
gum or a fabric made of this silk.
Marble Cloth - Originally made of silk and
wool. Today it is produced with natural and
synthetic fibers
Marocain - A ribbed
fabric from silk, wool or synthetics with a wavy
look, resembling crepe.
Marquisette -
Silk, cotton, rayon, or synthetic fibers in a
gauze or lino weave that is a very lightweight,
open, sheer, or mesh fabric. Wears very well and
launders very well. Typically has a swivel dot or
clip spot (marquisette).
Marseilles - Named after it's city of
origin in France. It is identified by its raised
woven pattern. This double-faced textile has a
quilted appearance that is very elegant. Usually
found in white, but other colors can also be used.
Matelasse – French
for "cushioned or padded" and is made on a
jacquard or dobby loom, in double cloth weave.
This term refers to the type of weave. It is a
triple-woven medium to heavyweight luxury fabric
fabric made in a double cloth construction to
create a blistered or quilted surface. The pattern
stands out and gives a "pouch" or "quilted" effect
to the goods. Crepe yarn in double weave shrinks
during finishing causing a blistering effect.
Gives good wear and drapes well. If washable, it
must be laundered with care. It is very attractive
and suits quite plain styles. Some cotton
matelasse is used for bedspreads, dresses, suits,
or ensembles.
Matte - Lacks luster or gloss and has a
usually smooth even surface free from shine or
highlights.
Melton - A heavyweight, dense, compacted,
and tightly woven wool or wool blend fabric used
mainly for coats.
Mercerization – A finishing process of
treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the
fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda
solution (sodium hydroxide) and later neutralized in acid. The
process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber,
resulting in an increased luster on the surface of
the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes, and
increased strength.
Merino - A type of wool that originates
from pure-bred Merino sheep. The best Merino wool
comes from Italy.
Mermaid - This skirt hugs the body until
it reaches the knees or just below and then ends
in a dramatic flare.
Mesh - A type of fabric characterized by
its net-like open appearance, and the spaces
between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety
of constructions including wovens, knits, laces,
or crocheted fabrics.
Metallic Fiber - An inorganic fiber made
from minerals and metals, blended and extruded to
form fibers. The fiber is formed from a flat
ribbon of metal, coated with a protective layer of
plastic, which reduces tarnishing. Metal used in
apparel fabric is purely decorative.
Microclimate - The temperature and humidity
of the space between your skin and the base layer
of clothing.
Microfibers - Generic term for any
synthetic fiber finer than silk. Fabrics made with
micro fibers are soft, lightweight, breathable and
durable. Currently popular in outdoor
activewear. Fibers made using microfiber
technology, produce fibers which weigh less than
1.0 denier. The fabrics made from these extra-fine
fibers provide a superior hand, a gentle drape,
and incredible softness. Comparatively,
microfibers are two times finer than silk, three
times finer than cotton, eight times finer than
wool, and one hundred times finer than a human
hair. Currently, there are four types of
microfibers being produced. These include acrylic
microfibers, nylon microfibers, polyester
microfibers, and rayon microfibers.
Microfleece - A soft, luxorous fabric with
a velvety feel.
Microporous - A coating on a fabric that
breathes through microscopic pores.
Modacrylic Fiber - A manufactured fiber
similar to acrylic in characteristics and
end-uses. Modacrylics have a higher resistance to
chemicals and combustion than acrylic, but also
have a lower safe ironing temperature and a higher
specific gravity than acrylic.
Mohair - From the
clipped angora goat. Some mohair fabric has a
cotton warp and mohair filling (sometimes called
brilliantine). Imitation mohair is made from wool
or a blend. The weave can be plain or twill
or knitted. The Angora goat is one of the
oldest animals known to man. It is 2 1/2 times as
strong as wool. Angora goats are raised in South
Africa, Western Asia, turkey, and neighboring
countries. Some are in the U.S.A. but give a
fabric that is smooth, glossy, and wiry. The
angora goat has long wavy hair. Mohair is also
made in a pile fabric of cut and uncut loops
similar to frieze with a cotton and wool back and
mohair pattern. It is similar to alpaca.
Moire - Silk, rayon, or
cotton in a plain or crosswise rib weave. It
has a watermarked finish that is fairly stiff with
body in most cases. It is produced by passing the
fabric between engraved cylinders which press the
design into the material, causing the crushed and
uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently.
The pattern is not permanent, except on acetate
rayon.
Moisture Regain - The amount of water a
completely dry fiber will absorb from the air at a
standard condition of 70 degrees F and a relative
humidity of 65%. Expressed as a % of the dry fiber
weight.
Moisture Transport - The movement of water
from one side of a fabric to the other, caused by
capillary action, wicking, chemical or
electrostatic action.
Monk's Cloth – Made
from wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or
synthetics. In a basket weave. Monk’s cloth
is heavy due to its construction. It is difficult
to sew or manipulate as the yarns have a tendency
to slide, stretch and fray. It may sag in time
depending on the compactness of the weave. It can
also be made in other basket weaves. Monk’s cloth
is rough in texture.
Monofilament - A single filament of a
manufactured fiber, usually made in a denier
higher than 14. Monofilaments are usually spun
singularly, rather than extruded as a group of
filaments through a spinneret and spun into a
yarn. End-uses include hosiery and sewing thread.
Montagnac - This
luxurious textile is soft and lustrous. It is
mainly created with Cashmere or Camel hair.
Mousseline de Soie
– A silk muslin that is sheer, open, and
lightweight. It is something like chiffon but with
a crisp finish produced by sizing. It does not
wear well and it does not launder. Used in evening
wear, and bridal wear.
Muslin - Cotton sheeting fabric with thread
count of less than 180 threads per square inch.
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N
Nainsook – A fine,
lightweight cotton in a plain weave that is
produced in the finishing processes from the same
gray goods as used for batiste, cambric, lawn.
Soft and has a slight luster in the better
qualities (mercerization). It is slightly
heavier than batiste. Like lawn but not as crisp.
Soft, lacks body. Usually found in white but also
comes in pastel colors and some printed.
Often tucked or embroidered, in blouses, night
wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.
Nano-fiber - Nano refers to 1 billionth of
a meter, or 1 x 10-8 centimeter. 150,000 strands
of a nano-fiber can fit across a human hair.
Nano-technology - Complex technology that
involves nano-size materials and combines science
such as biology, chemistry and physics and
engineering.
Napped Fabrics - Cotton fabrics which have
been dry finished by raising fibers on the surface
to produce a fuzzy fur-like feel and appearance
created when fiber ends extend from the basic
fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric
can be napped on either one or both sides. Cotton
flannel is an example.
Natural Fibers - Materials that grow in
nature such as cotton, flax, hemp, alpaca, wool
and silk. The processing natural fibers into
organic clothing is done with as few chemicals and
harmful impact on the environment as possible.
Natural Waist - A seam or waistband that
secures or falls at the natural curve of the body,
which is the indentation between the hips and the
ribcage.
Net - An open fabric of silk, rayon,
cotton, synthetics, or nylon, that is created by
connecting the intersections in a woven, knitted,
or crocheted construction to form a mesh-like
appearance that won't ravel. It is a
knotted, mesh fabric made on a lace machine or
gauze or leno weaves in a variety of
geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and
weights. It is very open and light. It forms the
foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains,
millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and
bridal wear.
Ninon - A lightweight, plain weave, made of
silk or manufactured fibers, with an open
mesh-like appearance. Since the fabric is made
with high twist filament yarns, it has a crisp
hand. End uses include eveningwear and curtains.
Nonwoven Fabric - Fabrics made directly
from individual fibers that are matted together by
forming an interlocking web of fibers either
mechanically (tangling together) or chemically
(gluing, bonding, or melting together).
Nylon - The first completely synthetic
fiber developed in 1938. Known for its high
strength and excellent resilience, nylon has
superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility.
Known for its high strength and excellent
resilience, nylon has superior abrasion resistance
and high flexibility.
Nytril - A manufactured fiber, most often
used in sweaters or pile fabrics, where little or
no pressing is recommended, as the fiber has a low
softening or melting point. However, it has also
been successfully used in blends with wool for the
purpose of minimizing shrinkage and improving the
shape retention in garments.
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O
Off-The-Shoulder Neck - A neckline that
lies gently hovering across the top of the
bust-line with the shoulders uncovered or able to
be seen through the sheer yoke of net or organza
attached to a high collar.
Oilcloth - Originally, textiles such as
cotton were coated in oil to create resistance to
moisture. Now, resins from plastics are used
instead of oil. Olefin is a very versatile fiber
with excellent flexibility. In the past, oilcloth
was used for waterproof garments. Oilcloth
is another historical fabric that has been
replaced by synthetics and more modern fabrics.
Olefin (also known as polyolefin and
polypropylene) - A manufactured fiber
characterized by its light weight, high strength,
and abrasion resistance. Olefin is also good at
transporting moisture, creating a wicking action.
End-uses include activewear apparel, rope,
indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and
upholstery.
Ondule - The name is derived from a French
word meaning wavy. This wavy effect is created by
weaving the warp irregularly. It is created in
silk, cotton and manufactured fibers.
Organdy – Plain
cotton made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness
is due to a finish with starch and calendaring
which washes out, or a permanent crispness
obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process).
Organdy wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free
finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed,
printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.
Organza - A crisp, sheer, lightweight
plain-weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn
count, made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester.
The fabric is used primarily in evening and
wedding apparel for women. It has a very
wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but
it is easily pressed. Organza is a dressy type of
fabric that sometimes has a silvery sheen.
Osnaberg - A medium
to heavyweight coarse fabric that is characterized
by its strength and durability. May or may
not be treated with a finish. If it is finished,
it is also know as Hopsacking or Crash.
Ottoman – Originated in Turkey, this is a
tightly woven, plain-weave, ribbed fabric with a
hard, slightly shiny surface. The ribbed effect is
created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured
warp yarn with a heavier filler yarn, usually made
of cotton, wool, rayon or waste yarn that is
completely covered by the warp yarn, thus creating
the ribbed effect. It is
characterized by horizontal ribs and is heavier in
weight and with a larger rib than both faille and
bengaline. It has very pronounced flat ribs in the
filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton,
worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not
show on either the face or the back, because the
warp covers the filling entirely. It is called
Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is
employed. Fabric is stiff and cannot be gathered
or shirred. Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a
tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it
cannot be fitted too tightly. Another type
of Ottoman with heavy ribbing is also found in
Satin Weave.
Oxford – Cotton, or sometimes rayon in a
plain weave. Warp has two fine yarns which
travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky
filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Better
qualities of oxford cotton are mercerized.
It is a rather heavy fabric that is usually all
white but some has a spaced stripe in the warp
direction. Oxford launders very well but soils
easily. When made with yarn dyed warp and white
weft, it is called oxford chambray. The one
remaining commercial shirting material made
originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names
of four Universities - Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard,
and Yale. Well known for men's shirts, but
is also used for summer jackets, shirts, skirts,
dresses, and sportswear.
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P
Paisley - A tear-drop shaped, fancy printed
pattern, used in dresses, blouses, and men's ties.
Panne - French word
meaning plush. It resembles velvet but has a much
longer pile. It has high luster and is made in
silk, silk blends or with synthetics.
Panné Velvet - A type of lustrous,
lightweight velvet fabric, usually made of silk or
a manufactured fiber, in which the pile has been
flattened in one direction.
Pearlized - Given a pearlescent surface or
finish.
Peasant Top - Romantic style often
characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or
free flowing material.
Peau de Cynge -
The name comes from a French phrase that means
"swam skin". Crepe yarns are woven to create a
silk textile with high luster and a slightly
slubbed texture with good body.
Peau de Peche -
The name comes from a French phrase meaning "skin
of peach". This textile has a soft nap that is
acquired after a finishing process.
Peau de Soie - A heavy twill weave
drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a
manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and
eveningwear.
Peau Satin – Satin fabric of silk or a
manufactured fiber that is woven in a heavy twill
weave. The fabric is easily draped and used
for bridal gowns and evening wear.
Peek-a-boo - Any part of the garment
which has been cut out to reveal skin.
Pekin - A high quality fabric
characterized by its vertical stripes of identical
width that have equal widths between them. It
consists of cotton, wool, silk, or elaborate
velvet stripes that are separated by satin.
Percale – Plain,
medium weight, cotton weave of a medium weight
that is firm, smooth, with no gloss. Warps and
washes very well. It is made from both carded and
combed yarns. Percale sheeting is the finest
sheeting available and is made of combed yarns and
has a count of 200 - carded percale sheeting has a
count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The
thread count ranges usually from 180-100.
Performance Fabrics - Fabrics made for a
variety of end-use applications, which provide
functional qualities, such as moisture
management, UV protection, anti-microbial,
thermo-regulation, and wind/water resistance.
Petticoat - An underskirt usually a
little shorter than the outer clothing and often
made with a ruffled, pleated or lace edge.
Picot - A narrow row of dainty, woven loops
along the selvage of fabric or lace produced to
create an edge or a finished flange.
Pieced - A look created by sewing
several pieces of material together to form the
garment, much like a quilt.
Pile Knit - A type of knit construction
which utilizes a special yarn or a sliver that is
interlooped into a standard knit base. This
construction is used in the formation of imitation
fur fabrics, in special liners for cold weather
apparel such as jackets and coats, and in some
floor coverings. While any basic knit stitch may
be used for the base of pile knits, the most
common is the jersey stitch.
Pile Weave - A type of decorative weave in
which a pile is formed by additional warp or
filling yarns interlaced in such a way that loops
are formed on the surface or face of the fabric.
The loops may be left uncut, or they may be cut to
expose yarn ends and produce cut pile fabric.
Pill - A tangled ball of fibers that
appears on the surface of a fabric, as a result of
wear or continued friction or rubbing on the
surface of the fabric. Occurs as a result of
fibers loosening from the fabric surface to form
balls of matted fiber particles.
Pinafore - Originally used to protect
dresses from dirt, it was adopeted as a fashion
piece and worn as a sleeveless dress or over a
blouse.
Pique - Cotton, rayon,
or synthetic fabrics in a lengthwise rib, English
crosswise rib or cord weave that creates a stiff,
durable ribbed fabric with an embossed pattern
produced by a double warp thread.
Originally was a crosswise rib but now mostly a
lengthwise rib and the same as bedford cord. Ribs
are often filled to give a more pronounced wale
(cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights and
is generally made of combed face yarns and carded
stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well,
but wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free
finish. It also comes in different patterns
besides wales. Some of the patterns are birdseye
(small diamond), waffle (small squares), honeycomb
(like the design on honeycomb honey). When the
fabric begins to wear out it wears at the corded
areas first.
Placket - The piece of cloth that
reinforces a split or opening in a garment.
Usually also serves as the closure.
Plain Weave - A basic weave, utilizing a
simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling
yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of
fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave
fabric.
Plaited Fabric - A narrow fabric made by
crossing a number of sturdy yarns diagonally, so
each strand passes alternatively over or under one
or more of the other stands. Typically used in
shoe laces and suspenders.
Plaited Yarn - A yarn covered by another
yarn.
Plied Yarn - A twisting together of two or
more single yarns in one operation.
Plisse - Cotton,
rayon, and other fabrics that have been treated
with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts
of the goods either all over or in stripes giving
a blistered effect that is similar to seersucker
in appearance. Produced by a wet finishing
treatment, this fabric has the look of woven
seersucker, similar to crepe. This crinkle may or
may not be removed after washing. This depends on
the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be
ironed, but if a double thickness, such as a hem,
needs a little, it should be done after the fabric
is thoroughly dry.
Plush - Velvet or
velveteen where the pile is 1/8" thick or more.
e.g. Cotton velour, hat velour, plush "fake furs".
Pointelle - Very feminine,
delicate-looking, rib-knit fabric made with a
pattern of openings.
Point d'esprit –
Cotton, and sometimes silk, in a Leno, gauze,
knotted, or mesh weave. First made in France
in 1834, it has a dull surfaced net with various
sized holes. Has white or colored dots
individually spaced or in groups.
Polyester - A manufactured fiber introduced
in the early 1950s, and is second only to cotton
in worldwide use. Polyester has high strength
(although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent
resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low
absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.
Polypropylene (also known as polyolefin and
Olefin) - A manufactured fiber characterized
by its light weight, high strength, and abrasion
resistance. Polypropylene is also good at
transporting moisture, creating a wicking action.
End-uses include activewear apparel, rope,
indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and
upholstery.
Pongee - Silk, cotton,
or rayon in a plain weave that was woven "in the
gum". Originally from China and woven on
hand looms in the home. It is light or medium
weight and tan or ecru in color. Some is dyed,
but color is not quite uniform. The warp is finer
and more even than filling. The nubs or irregular
cross ribs are produced by uneven yarns. It is
woven from wild tussah silk and it is a "raw
silk".
Poplin - A cotton or wool fabric made using
a crosswise rib variation of the plain weave. The
construction is characterized by having a slight
ridge effect in one direction, usually the
filling. The filling is cylindrical with two
or three times as many warp as weft per inch.
Has a more pronounced filling effect than
broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high
luster. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat
dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is given a
water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Poplin was
originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool
filling. American cotton broadcloth shirting
is known as poplin in Great Britain.
Press Mark - Undesirable shining lines
on the outside of the garment due to incorrect
ironing.
Princess Seams - Seams that can be found
in the front or the back of a garment that create
a form-fitting shape.
Provence – This is a plain woven cotton
with a typed style of printing which characterizes
the countryside of Provence in French country.
Puckered bodice - Usually associated
with tube tops, it provides a scrunchy look.
Puff Sleeve / Pouf Sleeve - A full
sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous
gathering around the armhole.
Purl Stitch - A basic stitch used in weft
knitting, which produces knit fabrics that have
the same appearance on both sides. The purl stitch
is frequently used in combination with the jersey
and rib stitches to produce a knitted fabric
design. Sweaters, knitted fabrics for infants and
children's wear, knitted fabrics for specialized
sportswear, and bulky knit fabrics are commonly
made using the purl stitch.
Pyrenees – A wool fabric made in France
from the wool of Pyrenees’ flocks of sheep. The
Pyrenees are a mountain chain between France and
Spain. The fabric is well known because it is a
high quality fabric which keeps warm.
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Q
Quilting - A fabric construction in which a
layer of down or fiberfill is placed between two
layers of fabric, and then held in place by
stitching or sealing in a regular, consistent,
all-over pattern on the goods.
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R
Radium - Originated in Lyons France. It
has high luster and is smooth and soft.
Ramie - A natural woody fiber, similar to
flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in
China. Also know as rhea and China grass, it
is obtained from a tall shrub grown in South-east
Asia. China, Japan, and southern Europe. The fiber
is stiff, more brittle than linen, and highly
lustrous. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness.
Ramie fibers are long and very fine. They are
white and lustrous and almost silk-like in
appearance. The strength of ramie is but elastic
recovery is low and elongation is poor. Ramie
lends itself to general processing for textile
yarns, but its retting operation is difficult and
costly, making the fiber unprofitable for general
use. When combed, ramie is half the density of
linen, but much stronger, coarser, and more
absorbent. It has permanent luster and good
affinity for dyes and is affected little by
moisture. Ramie is used as filling yarn in mixed
woolen fabrics, as adulteration with silk fibers,
and as a substitute for flax. The China-grass
cloth use by the Chinese is made of Ramie.
Raschel Knit - A warp knitted fabric in
which the resulting knit fabric resembles hand
crocheted fabrics, lace fabrics, and nettings.
Raschel warp knits contain inlaid connecting yarns
in addition to columns of knit stitches.
Ratine - Originated in Italy
but is a French word that means rough. This fiber
has an uneven, pebbled surface. It comes in solid
colors and prints and is usually made from silk,
cotton or wool.
Rayon - A manufactured fiber composed of
regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp,
cotton linters, or other vegetable matter.
Re-embroidered - To outline a design (as on
lace) with embroidery stitching.
Repellency - The ability of a fabric to
resist such things as wetting and staining by
water, stains, soil, etc.
Resiliency - The ability of a fabric to
spring back to its original shape after being
twisted, crushed, wrinkled, or distorted in any
way.
Rhinestoned - To attach a colorless
imitation stone of high luster made of glass,
paste, or gem quartz.
Ribbed - To form vertical ridges in
knitting.
Ribboned - Ribbon lace is made by stitching
ribbon onto mesh or net fabrics. The design is
usually a random pattern rather than floral.
Rib knit - A basic stitch used in weft
knitting in which the knitting machines require
two sets of needles operating at right angles to
each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of
elasticity in the crosswise direction. This
knitted fabric is used for complete garments and
for such specialized uses as sleeve bands, neck
bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of
trims for use with other knit or woven fabrics.
Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close,
body-hugging fit.
Rib Weave - One of the plain weave
variations, which is formed by using: 1) heavy
yarns in the warp or filling direction, or 2) a
substantially higher number of yarns per inch in
one direction than in the other, or 3) several
yarns grouped together as one. Rib fabrics are all
characterized by having a slight ridge effect in
one direction, usually the filling. Such fabrics
may have problems with yarn slippage, abrasion
resistance, and tear strength. Examples of this
construction include broadcloth, poplin, taffeta,
faille, shantung, and cord fabric.
Rip-stop Nylon - A lightweight, wind
resistant, and water resistant plain weave fabric.
Large rib yarns stop tears without adding excess
weight to active sportswear apparel and outdoor
equipment such as sleeping bags and tents. Fabric
woven with double thread at regular intervals to
create small squares that prevent tears from
spreading. Usually made from nylon or polyester
and used in packs, sleeping bags, tent sand gear.
Romaine - A
lightweight textile with a low thread count that
is lustrous and has an uneven textural appearance.
It was originally made of silk but is found today
in wool, silk, rayon, acetate and other
synthetics.
Romper - A one-piece garment with the
lower part shaped like bloomers.
Ruche -
Fluted or crimped lace or gauze, used as a
trimming.
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S
Sailcloth - A strong canvas of cotton,
linen, or nylon in a plain weave, sometimes with a
crosswise rib. The weights vary, but most
often the count is around 148 x 60. Able to
withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow).
Sailcloth for clothing is sold frequently and is
much lighter weight than used for sails.
Historically used in sails, awnings, and all kinds
of sportswear for men, women, and children.
Sanforized - A process to preshrink fabric.
Fabrics with this trademark should never shrink
more than 1%.
Sanglier –
French for wild boar. It was named for its
texture which is compact and wiry. It also has a
very rough finish. It is usually created with
mohair and worsted fibers.
Saran Fiber - A manufactured fiber which
has an excellent resistance to sunlight and
weathering, and is used in lawn furniture,
upholstery, and carpets.
Sarong Skirt - Long cloth which is
wrapped around the entire body.
Sateen – Cotton or rayon in a filling-face
weave. A weave construction for mercerized
cotton fabrics, which produces a lustrous and
smooth surface with the sheen in a filling
direction. Carded or combed yarns are used. Better
qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen.
Some are only calendered to produce the sheen but
this disappears with sashing and is not considered
genuine sateen. May be bleached, dyed, or printed.
Difficult to make good bound buttonholes on it as
it has a tendency to slip at the seams. Used
in dresses, sportswear, blouses, robes, pijamas,
linings for draperies, and bedspreads.
Sateen Fabric - A fabric made from yarns
with low luster, such as cotton or other staple
length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand
and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are
often used for draperies and upholstery.
Sateen Weave - A variation of the satin
weave, produced by floating fill yarns over warp
yarns.
Satin - A traditional fabric utilizing a
satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous
fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for
evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of
satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin,
crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin,
moleskin, and royal satin. Traditionally
made from silk, satin can also be made from rayon
and synthetics. It originated in China (Zaytoun,
China - now Canton - a port from which satins were
exported during the Middle Ages). It became
known in Italy during the XIIth, and XIIIth
Centuries and in England by the XIVth Century. It
became a favorite of all court life because of its
exquisite qualities and feel. It usually has a
lustrous surface and a dull back. The luster is
produced by running it between hot cylinders. It
is made in many colors, weights, varieties,
qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low grade
silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper
cloths.
Satin
(Double-Faced Satin) - Yarn woven with two
warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin
construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton
filling is often used in cheaper qualities.
Satin (Duchesse Satin) - This form of satin
has a wonderful luster and a smooth feel with a
thread count is very high. As the name
implies, it is used in fine women's wear.
Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp
with more ends/inch than picks. It is
characterized by a grainy twill on back.
Satin (Peau de Soie)
– A soft, satin-face, good quality cloth with a
dull luster. It has a grainy appearance, and is a
characteristic in the cloth which may have a
single or double face construction. Fine close
ribs are seen in the filling direction. With the
best grades, the fabric can be used on either
side. Lower qualities are finished on one side
only. Name means "skin of silk". Some cloth sold
as peau de soie is really a de-lustered satin. It
doesn't have the grainy appearance. Because of
crosswise rib, the fabric is difficult to ease.
Also sold as "de-lustered satin".
Satin-back
Satin on one side and anything on the other.
For example, very good velvet ribbon has velvet on
one side and satin on the other.
Satin Faconne –
A jacquard figured fabric with an all-satin weave
background. Various types of striping effects are
obtained.
Satin Weave - A basic weave, characterized
by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric.
The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that
there is no definite, visible pattern of
interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and
somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The
shiny surface effect is further increased through
the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns
which also have a low amount of twist. A true
satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns
floating over filling yarns.
Scalloped Edge - A border that contains
continuous curves finished with bourdon stitching.
Scoop Neck / Round Neck - A low,
U-shaped or round neckline.
Seamless Knitting - A unique process of
circular knitting, done on either Santoni or
Sangiacomo knitting machines. This circular
knitting process essentially produces finished
garments with no side seams, which require only
minimal sewisng to complete the garment. Seamless
knitting can transform yarn into complete garments
in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional
garment manufacturing, by minimizing the
traditional labor-intensive steps of sutting and
sewing.
Seersucker - A woven fabric of cotton,
rayon or synthetics which incorporates
modification of tension control. In the production
of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held
under controlled tension at all times during the
weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed
state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns
are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe
effect in the fabric. The term is derived
from the Persian "shirushaker", a kind of cloth,
literally "milk and sugar". Colored stripes are
often used. It has a dull surface and comes in
medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is
produced by alternating slack and tight yarns in
the warp for a permanent effect. The crinkle
effect can also be produced by pressing or the use
of chemicals, which is not likely to be permanent
- called plisse. It is durable and will wear for
years. It may be laundered without ironing.
Can be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some comes
in a check effect. Often used in summer
suits for men, women, and children, coats,
uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of
sportswear, dresses, blouses, children's wear of
all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers.
Selvage or Selvedge - The thin compressed
edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the
warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually
woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter
construction than the rest of the fabric.
Serge - A fabric with a smooth hand that is
created by a two-up, two-down twill weave.
Serging -An overcasting technique done on
the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling.
Serpentine Crepe
– Has a filling with a twisted thread which
creates a crepe effect. The size of the
crepe thread determines the texture.
Sequined - Ornamented with a small plate of
shining metal or plastic.
Shantung - A medium-weight, plain-weave
fabric in cotton, silk, rayon or synthetics,
characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from
slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling
direction. End-uses include dresses and suits.
It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk
waste, depending on the quality. It is quite
similar to pongee, but has a more irregular
surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs
are in the filling direction. It wrinkles easily
and abundantly. Underlining helps to prevent this
as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too
tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes in
various weights, colors and also printed.
Shadowy Organdy
– A lightweight, crisp and sheer fabric. The
shadowy effect is produced by printing one color
repeatedly upon itself itself.
Sharkskin – A
hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric
in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly
found in men's worsted suitings; however, it can
also be found in a plain-weave construction of
acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women's
sportswear. Made from rayon (acetate) and
synthetics (particularly Arnel) in a plain or
twill weave. It has a heavy, semi-crisp
texture and is very smooth and slippery with a
flat look. It is mostly made in white but
sometimes colored. It wears well and launders well
particularly in Arnel. It a tendency to turn
yellow with age, but the Arnel remains pure white.
It has been used for summer wear.
Shatush - This is one
of the finest textiles. It is created from white,
silver or gray hair of wild goats. The supply of
this hair is very limited so the textile is very
rare and it is one of the most expensive fabrics
in the world.
Shawl Collar - A one-piece collar which
is turned down to form a continuous line around
the back of the neck to the front.
Sheer - Any very light-weight fabric such
as chiffon, georgette, voile, or sheer crepe.
They usually have an open weave and feel cool.
Sheers (Triple
Sheers) - Heavier and flatter than sheers and
almost opaque. Many are made from "Bemberg", which
wears, drapes, and washes well.
Shelf Bra - A bra that is built right
into the garment. Used often in exercise
clothing for ladies.
Shrinkage - The contraction of a fiber,
yarn or fabric after washing and drying. All
products made of natural fibers have a tendency to
shrink 4%-8%.
Shrug - A woman's small, waist-length or
shorter jacket.
Silhouette - Dark shaded profile
portrait outline of any garment.
Silk – A fiber produced by the silkworm
Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm,
with which the worm weaves its cocoon. One
of the finest textiles, silk is soft, has a
brilliant sheen, and is very strong and absorbent.
A luxurious fabric, silk is lush to the touch and
drapes beautifully on the body. It is sensitive to
sunlight as well as perspiration and must be
carefully laundered. While silk is essentially
organic, standards are being developed for organic
certification of silk.
Silk (Degummed
Silk) - By boiling the silk in hot water, the
gum (sericin) is removed from the yarn/fabric. By
doing this, the luster of the silk is enhanced. It
is very lightweight.
Silk (Honan) -
The best grade of wild silk and is similar to
"pongee" but finer. It is made from wild silkworms
raised in the Honan area of China and is the only
wild type that gives even dyeing results. Do not
fit too tightly.
Silk (Illusion) - A
gauze weave or made on bobbinet machine or
knotted. It is a
very fine, all-silk tulle which originated in
France. It has a cobweb appearance and used in
wedding gown veils and trimmings.
Silk (Lame) - Silk or
any textile fiber in which metallic threads are
used in the warp or the filling. Lame is also a
trade mark for metallic yarns. French for
"trimmed with leaves of gold or silver". Often has
pattern all over the surface. The shine and
glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for
dressy wear.
Sisal - A strong bast
fiber that originates from the leaves of the Agave
plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central
America, and Africa. End-uses include cordage and
twine. One of a group of fibers obtained from the
leaves of a plant that belongs to the Agave family
and is raised in Mexico, especially in the Yucatan
peninsula. The fiber is also cultivated in Africa,
Java, and some areas of South America. Sisal can
be dyed bright colors, by means of both cotton
dyes and acid dyes normally used for wool.
Skant - Pants that have a sweater-like
attachment around the waist.
Skort - Shorts that have a front
covering to resemble a skirt.
Smart Textiles - Textiles that can sense
and react to changes in the environment, such as
changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical,
magnetic and other sources.
Solution-dyed - A type of fiber dyeing in
which colored pigments are injected into the
spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the
fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns
colored in this manner are color-fast to most
destructive agents.
Soy – A new fabric with a silky feel that
is produced from the soy bean plant.
Spaghetti Strap - A thin tubular strap
that attaches to the bodice. Named for its
likeness to a strand of spaghetti.
Spandex - A manufactured elastomeric fiber
that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without
breaking, and will still recover to its original
length. Spandex increases the life of a
garment, making it more sustainable. It adds
stretch and versatility and contributes to a wider
array of fashion fabrications. Lycra is the
same as spandex.
Spinneret - A metal nozzle type device with
very fine holes used in the spinning process of
manufactured fibers. The spinning solution is
forced or extruded through the small holes to form
continuous filament fibers. The holes in the
spinneret can vary in diameter to produce fibers
of various denier.
Split Neck - A round neckline that looks
like it have been cut in the center to form a
small "V".
Spot Weave
- A woven construction in which patterns are built
in at spaced intervals through the use of extra
warp and/or extra fill yarns are placed in
selected areas. These yarns are woven into the
fabric by means of a dobby or Jacquard attachment.
Spun Rayon – A rayon that is spun to
look like cotton or wool. It is made with
staple fibers in a continuous strand to give this
effect. It wears well and is washable. Made in
different weights and comes in plain colors and
prints. Has soft, fuzzy surface and blends well
with cotton.
Spun Yarn - A yarn made by taking a group
of short staple fibers, which have been cut from
the longer continuous filament fibers, and then
twisting these short staple fibers together to
form a single yarn, which is then used for weaving
or knitting fabrics.
Square Neck - An open-yoke neckline
shaped in the form of a half square.
Staple Fibers - Short fibers, typically
ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches long. Wool,
cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers.
Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific
length from the continuous filament fiber. Usually
the staple fiber is cut in lengths ranging from
1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple
fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which
is then woven or knit into fabrics.
Straight Legs - Pant legs cut an equal
width from the waist to the ankle.
Suede – Suede leather with a napped surface.
Suede fabric is made from
wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends in a
plain, twill, or knitted that is napped on one
side to resemble suede leather. The short,
close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in
cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier.
Sunn – A bast fiber
obtained from the Crotalaria juncea plant.
The fibers grow from 4 to 5 feet long and are
retted and prepared like other bast fibers. Sunn
contains over 80% cellulose and is highly
resistant to moisture and meldew. This fiber is
mainly produced in India although small amounts
are grown in Uganda. It is mainly used for
cordage, rug yarns, and paper. In India it is also
used for fish nets and is sometimes used as a
substitute for jute in bagging cloths.
Surah – A light weight,
lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a
silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties,
dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk,
polyester, and rayon. A silk, rayon, or synthetic
fiber woven in a twill (2 up and 2 down) that is
soft and flexible, lightweight and lustrous.
It has a noticeable twill on the fabric and
wrinkles easily. Underlining can help to prevent
wrinkling, as well as to prevent slipping at the
seams. Some have a tendency to water spot. It is
very similar to "foulard", but heavier.
Sustainable Clothing - Sustainable
clothing and sustainable fashion is very
subjective. Clothing that
reduces the environmental impact. Clothing
that supports and nourishes the earth and the
lives of all people involved in the processes of
growing, manufacturing and distributing the
clothing. Reuse and recycling, organic
fibers, Free Trade worker conditions, and animal
welfare are important
principles for sustainable clothing and fashion,
but it isn't necessary to have them all together.
Sweetheart Neck - A graceful, open yoke,
shaped like the top half of a heart.
Synthetics – Fabrics that are not from
natural origins. Synthetics include manmade
polyesters and polyvinyl fiber derivatives such as
Acrylic, Nylon and Spandex that have been
synthesized from petroleum and carbon derivatives.
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T
Taffeta - A lustrous, medium-weight,
plain-weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance
in the filling (crosswise) direction made from
silk, rayon or synthetics. For formal wear,
taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp
hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the
ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good
choices. It is a cloth supposed to have
originated in Iran (Persia) and was called "taftah",
meaning a fine silk fabric. In the 16th
century, it became a luxury for women's wear. It
is made in plain colors, fancy prints, watered
designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with
a sheen on its surface. The textures vary
considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness.
Taffeta in silk will not wear as long as other
high quality silks, since weighting is given the
fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted,
the goods will split or crack.
Taffeta (Faille) - Made with a crosswise
rib weave and has a distinct rib effect and is
usually quite heavy and firm.
Taffeta (Paper) - Plain weave, very light
in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like
finish.
Taffeta
(Pompadour) - Originally executed in silk and
often has large floral designs in velvet or pile
on a Taffeta ground. Occasionally stripes are used
instead of flowers. Today it is made with
manufactured fibers.
Taffeta (Shot) -
Usually plain weave in one color in the warp and
another color in the filling, which gives the
fabric an iridescent look. This color changes as
the fabric is moved in the light. Shot
taffeta is the silk version of chambray.
Taffeta (Tissue)
- Plain weave, very light weight and transparent.
Taffeta
(Warp-print) - Usually a plain weave, the
warp yarns are printed before the filling is
inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when
design is distorted as fabric is woven.
Tagua Nut - Used as a substitute for
plastic buttons, the Tagua nut is a sustainable
commodity harvested by the indigenous people of
the rainforest.
Tank Top - A short, sleeveless top with
wide armholes.
Tankini - A two piece bathing suit with
the upper portion resembling a tank top.
Tapered Legs - Pant legs that become
progressively narrower toward the ankle.
Tea Length - A gown hemmed to end at the
shin.
Tencel - A trademark of Courtaulds for a
high-performance fiber used to make soft,
beautifully draping rayon fabrics. It is a
strong, easy-care fabric made of cellulose
extracted from wood pulp that is harvested from
replenished tree farms. It's environmentally
sensitive and washable. This elegant
eco-fiber is derived using a non-toxic process,
which spins it into a buttery-soft machine
washable textile, both luxurious and upscale.
Tencel is 100% biodegradable, durable, dyeable,
and machine washable/dryable. It is elegant
and ultra-soft, offering an incredible drape and
versatility.
Tension Control Weave - A type of
decorative weave, characterized by a puckered
effect which occurs because the tension in the
warp yarns is intentionally varied before the
filling yarns are placed in the fabric.
Terry - A woven fabric, usually cotton or
maybe linen, with loop pile on one or both sides.
Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile.
It has either all over loops on both sides of the
fabric or patterned loops on both sides. It is
formed with an extra warp yarn. Long wearing, easy
to launder and requires no ironing. May be
bleached, dyed, or printed. Better qualities have
a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops.
Terry is very absorbent, and the longer the loop,
the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only
on one side, it is called "Turkish toweling".
Commonly used in towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all
kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip covers,
and draperies.
Terry Cloth - Type of cloth that has uncut
loops on the pile. A typical uncut pile weave
fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of
warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very
little tension; when the filling yarns are packed
into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward
along with the filling yarns, and loops are
formed. Typical uses include towels, robes, and
apparel.
Terry Velour - A pile weave cotton fabric
with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on
the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its
soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels,
robes, and apparel.
Thread Count - The number of yarns per
square inch in a woven fabric (warp yarn x weft
yarn per sq. inch). The higher the
count the finer the fabric.
Ticking - A tightly woven, very durable
fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for
covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and
work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a
plain, satin, or twill weave construction.
Ticking - Cotton twill
that is very tightly woven with more warp than
filling yarns. It is very sturdy and strong,
smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and colored
stripes, but some patterned (floral). Tiking
can be made water-repellent, germ resistant, and
feather-proof. Uses include pillow covers,
mattress coverings, upholstering and some
sportswear. "Bohemian ticking" has a plain weave,
a very high texture, and is featherproof. It
has a lighter weight than regular ticking and is
patterned with narrow colored striped on a white
background or may have a chambray effect by using
a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red
filling.
Tie-Cinched Waist - The waist is pulled
tight around the body with a tie.
Tri-acetate - A manufactured fiber, which,
like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose.
Tri-acetate is less absorbent and less sensitive
to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand
or machine washed and tumble dried, with
relatively good wrinkle recovery.
Tricot – A warp knit
fabric of silk, rayon, or synthetics in which the
fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel
yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of
yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns
are fed into the knitting area simultaneously.
Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width
and length are on the beam. Knit or warp knitted
with vertical wales on surface and more or less
crosswise ribs on the back. It has a thin
texture, made from very fine or single yarns.
Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very
run-resistant). Used in underwear,
sportswear, bathing suits, gloves.
Tricotine – A
fabric of worsted, wool, rayon, or blends with
synthetics. It has a double twill rib on the face
of the cloth with a very clear finish. It drapes
well, and tailors easily and is medium in weight.
It has exceptional wearing qualities and is very
much like cavalry twill, but finer. It is in
the same family as whipcords, coverts, and
gabardines.
Trim - To cut off the ragged edges below
the seam line to prevent the garment from being
bulky and to give the seam a neat finish.
Tropical Worsteds
- 100% worsted. If it is just called tropical, it
can be made up in any fiber or blends of wool and
synthetics. It has a plain and open weave.
The yarns are tightly twisted and woven to permit
a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is
ideal for summer and tropical wear. It has a clear
finish and wears and tailors very well.
Tulle – Made from Silk,
nylon, or cotton in a weave of guaze, knotted, or
leno and made on a lace machine. Its name is
derived name from Tulle, France and was first made
by Machine in 1768. It has a hexagonal mesh and is
stiff and difficult to launder. It is very cool,
dressy, delicate and is a stately type of fabric
when used for formal wear, and weddings. It is
also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.
Tunic Style - A simple slip-on garment
made with or without sleeves and usually
knee-length or longer, belted at the waist and
worn as an under or outer garment.
Turtleneck - A high, close-fitting,
turnover collar used especially for sweaters.
Tussah – A silk fabric
that is usually plain but also in twill. It
is made from wild or uncultivated silkworms. It is
coarse, strong, and uneven and has a dull luster
and is rather stiff. It has a rough texture with
many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in
color and it is difficult to bleach. It usually
doesn't take an even dye color. It wears well and
becomes more rough looking with wear. It wrinkles
a little, but not as much as some.
Tweed – Generally made of wool, but can
also be fabricated from cotton, rayon, silk,
linen, and synthetics. Tweed is the Scotch name
for twill and originated along the banks of the
Tweed river, which separates England from
Scotland. It is sometimes known as "tweel" and is
similar to homespun cheviot and shetland. They are
the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use.
Tweed was originally only made from different
colored stock-dyed fibers, producing various color
effects. The tweed fabric family consists of a
wide range of rough surfaced, sturdy fabrics.
There are also some closely woven, smoother,
softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds.
Tweed may also be plaid, checked, striped, or have
other patterns. It does not hold a crease
very well. Typically used in a wide range of
suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and
children.
Tweed (Harris) - All are hand woven on the
islands off the northern coast of Scotland (Outer
Hebrides). Harris Tweed was originally woven from
hand-spun yarn. When damp, it smells mossy
and smoky.
Twill - A fabric that shows a distinct
diagonal wale on the face such as denim,
gabardine, or tricotine.
Twill Weave - A basic weave in which the
fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and
filling yarns in a progressive alternation which
creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right
side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics,
the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on
the back side of the fabric.
Twist - A term that applies to the number
of turns and the direction that two yarns are
turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn
twist brings the fibers close together and makes
them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one
another, increasing yarn strength. The direction
and amount of yarn twist helps determine
appearance, performance, durability of both yarns
and the subsequent fabric or textile product.
Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist)
or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and
worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax
yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist is generally
expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter
(tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc).
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U
Urena - This bast fibre comes from the
Urena lobata plant. Wild, it grows 3
to 7 feet high and when cultivated can grow as
tall as 13 feet. The fiber strands are cream
coloured and have a wonderful luster. This fiber
is mainly grown in the Congo area although small
amounts are also raised in Brazil, India and the
Philippines. Urena has the same uses as jute.
Return To Top Index
V
V-Neck / V-Back - An open yoke coming to a
"V" shape midway down the bodice.
Variegated - Having streaks, marks or
patches of different colors. Distinquished
or characterized by a variety of different colors.
Velour - A medium-weight, closely-woven
cotton, wool, or spun rayon fabric with a thick,
plush pile. It can be made using either a plain
weave or a satin weave construction. It resembles
velvet, but has a lower cut pile. The pile
is characterized by two different lengths which
gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile
create light and shaded areas on the surface and
give it a pebbled effect. This type of velour was
invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844. "Velours"
is the French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is
simply cotton velvet.
Velvet - A medium-weight, cut-pile
constructed fabric of silk, rayon, cotton or
sythetics in which the cut pile stands up very
straight. It is woven using two sets of warp
yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a
luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament
fiber for high luster and smooth hand. Mostly
made with a plain back but some with a twill.
Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or
cotton back. The name comes from the Latin "vellus",
meaning a fleece or tufted hair and it comes in
many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet
wears fairly well and is inexpensive. The cheaper
cloths give little service and look well only a
few times before beginning to deteriorate. Better
velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant,
and drapes well but it has to be handled with
care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one
way. For the maximum amount of depth in the color,
cut it with the pile running up. It also
wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be
cut with very simple lines in the garment, so not
to destroy the beauty of the fabric. It has the
tendency to add weight to the figure.
Velvet (Cisele)
- A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in
cut and uncut loops.
Velvet (Faconne) - Patterned velvet made by
burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet
with background plain.
Velvet (Lyons) - A stiff, thick pile
velvet. Used for hats, coat collars, also for
suits, coats and dresses, when thick velvets are
fashionable.
Velvet (Nacre) - The back is of one color
and the pile of another, so that it gives a
changeable, pearly appearance.
Velvet (Chiffon
Velvet or Transparent Velvet) -
Lightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a
silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.
Velvet (Panne) -
Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but
shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a
high luster made possible by a tremendous
roller-press treatment given the material in
finishing. Now often made as knit fabric.
Velvet (Utrecht)
- Originated in Utrecht, Holland where it was made
of silk. It was pressed and crimped to produce a
raised effect. Today both mohair and silk are
used.
Velvet Satin - A
satin weave is used as the base for this luxurious
figured silk, made with a cut pile effect.
Velveteen - Cotton,
sometimes rayon, with a very short filling pile.
Woven with a extra filling yarn with either a
plain or a twill back (twill back is the best).
Velveteen is often mercerized with a durable
finish. It is strong and takes hard wear. Poor
quality rubs off. Some velveteen can be laundered.
It is a warm, cozy fabric that comes in all
colors, gradually piece dyed or may be printed.
Vetveteen has to be cut all one way. Press
carefully, preferably on a velvet board, or tumble
dry after laundering (no pressing needed). Mostly
used in children's wear, dresses, coats,
draperies, lounge wear, and a few special Rabbits.
Venetian – A fabric
of worsted, wool worsted and wool and cotton in a
satin weave, some in small repeat twill weaves
with a clear finish. Has a very good lustre finish
which resembles satin. Some has a slight nap.
Wears well - similar cloth has worsted warp and
woolen filling.
Venice lace - This lace often has a high
profile, and is made using a needlepoint technique
rather than embroidery. A heavier weight lace, the
patterns vary from geometric to floral. Each
pattern is attached to the others by bars made of
thread.
Vichy - The cotton weave of this fabric is
formed of horizontal bands and vertical bands
respectively in a light and strong variants of the
same color.
Vicuna – The fleece is
reddish brown, shading to white on the belly.
The fibers can be use to manufacture the softest
coat cloth in the world … or at least that’s the
story from the vicuna growers industry.
Viscose - The most common type of rayon. It
is produced in much greater quantity than
cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.
Viyella – A twill
blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton that has the
appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine,
and warm that holds a good pleat. It is
machine washable.
Voile - A crisp, lightweight, plain weave
cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in
a high yarn count construction. It is
similar in appearance to organdy and organza.
When it is made from wool, it is called "Voile de
laine". Voile is sheer and very
light-weight. It is usually made with
cylindrical combed yarns. To obtain a top quality
fabric, very highly twisted yarns are used. Voile
drapes and gathers very well. The clear surface is
obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns.
It has a hard finish and a crisp, sometimes wiry,
hand.
Return To Top Index
W
Waffle Cloth - A honeycomb weave usually of
cotton or wool, used mainly for towels and robes.
Warm Colors - Colors like red, orange,
and yellow are called warm colors. They are
advancing in nature because, as seen by the eye,
these colors move closer thereby reducing the size
of an object. Warm colors are cheerful.
Warp Knit - A type of knitted fabric
construction in which the yarns are formed into
stitches in a lengthwise manner. Warp knits are
generally less elastic than weft knits. Common
examples of warp knits are tricot knits and
raschel knits.
Warp Thread - The set of fixed threads that
are set lengthwise across the fabrics.
Waterproof - A term applied to fabrics
whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will
not allow water or air to pass through them.
Water Repellent - A term applied to fabrics
that have been treated with a finish which causes
them to shed water, but are still air-permeable.
Wedding-Band Collar - A collar featuring
a yoke that is either open or of sheer net with an
ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a
choker effect.
Weft - The crosswise threads of any woven
fabric.
Weft Knit - A type of knitted fabric in
which yarns are formed into stitches in widthwise
manner. Common examples of weft knits are circular
knits and flat knits.
Whipcord - Cotton, rayon, worsted or woolen
twill that is similar to gabardine, but the yarn
is bulkier and much more pronounced. It is very
durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In
time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back
is napped for warmth. It is named because it
stimulates the lash of a whip.
Wickability - The ability of a fiber or a
fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass
through to the surface of the fabric, so that
evaporation can take place.
Wicking - Dispersing or spreading of
moisture or liquid through a given area by
capillary action in a material.
Wing Collar - A collar with projections
which cover shoulder seams of bodices and
doublets.
Woof - The threads that cross the warp of a
woven fabric; the weft.
Wool – A protein fiber usually associated
with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep
or lambs. However, the term "wool" can also apply
to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of
the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair
fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.
Wool is very resilient and resistant to wrinkling.
It is renewed by moisture and well known for its
warmth. It absorbs and releases moisture slowly,
which allows excellent insulating capabilities and
breathability. It can even hold 30% of its own
weight without feeling damp.
Wool (Eco Wool) – Sheared from free range
roaming sheep that have not been subjected to
toxic flea dipping, and have not been treated with
chemicals, dyes, or bleaches. Eco wool comes
in natural tones of white, grey and black.
Worsted Fabric - A tightly woven fabric
made by using only long staple, combed wool or
wool-blend yarns. The fabric has a hard, smooth
surface. Gabardine is an example of a worsted
fabric. A common end use is men's tailored suits.
Woven Fabric - Fabrics composed of two sets
of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along
the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns,
the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp.
Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the
warp and the fill yarns over and under each other.
Wrinkle Recovery - Similar to resiliency.
It is the ability of a fabric to bounce back after
it has been twisted, wrinkled, or distorted in any
way.
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X
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Y
Yarn - A continuous strand of textile
fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers
are twisted together. These long yarns are used to
create fabrics, either by knitting or weaving.
Yarn Dyed - Yarns dyed in a bundle or
package before weaving into fabrics like ginghams,
stripes and plaids. Also known as "color-woven"
fabric.
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Z
Zephyr – The name comes from
the ancient God of the Winds Zephrus. The
quality of the textile is airy and can be made in
wool, cotton and synthetics
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